When you think about roads, each has its unique character. The famous China National Highway 318 (G318) is no exception. Stretching from Shanghai’s bustling People’s Square to the remote Nyalam County in Tibet, it runs along the 30th parallel, offering a breathtaking journey across China’s diverse landscapes.
So, what defines the character of the G318? Some call it majestic, others label it treacherous. But its allure lies in the perfect harmony of these two elements.
A Road That Unites Beauty and Danger
The G318 is a showcase of China’s natural diversity. Traveling along this route, you’ll witness plains, hills, plateaus, basins, lakes, mountains, glaciers, and pristine forests—all in one journey. Its beauty is mesmerizing, but the western section of the highway is a testament to human perseverance. Constructing this part of the road was an extraordinary feat, unmatched in the history of global road engineering.
The challenges led to the birth of the “Two Roads Spirit”: enduring hardship, overcoming fear, relentless teamwork, and the unbreakable bond between civilians and soldiers. This spirit not only built a road but also united communities along the way.
The Enchanting Journey Along G318
In July, the “Faithful Road II: Path of a Great Nation” team from Jiefang Daily followed the G318, capturing its stories. It became clear that the road’s awe-inspiring beauty and treacherous terrain are deeply interconnected. It is the triumph over danger that makes the scenic splendor accessible to travelers today.
As the ancient saying goes:
“The extraordinary sights of the world are often hidden in remote and perilous places, reachable only by those with great determination.”
The G318 proves this true. With modern infrastructure, it is now possible to embrace the blend of danger and beauty in a single journey.
Nyalam: The “Hong Kong” of Tibet
At the western edge of the G318 lies Nyalam County, a small but historically significant town on the border of Tibet and Nepal. Once a thriving hub of trade and culture, Nyalam earned the nickname “Hong Kong of Tibet.” However, the devastating earthquake in 2015 brought widespread destruction, disrupting its vibrant life.
Five years later, Nyalam is on the path to recovery. With infrastructure improvements and renewed trade connections, this border town is slowly regaining its former vitality. Visitors can now experience a unique blend of Tibetan and Nepalese culture while marveling at the surrounding Himalayan landscapes.
Why Visit Nyalam and the G318?
The journey along the G318 isn’t just about reaching destinations; it’s about embracing the spirit of exploration. From the urban dynamism of Shanghai to the serene, snow-capped peaks of Tibet, this route embodies the essence of adventure.
For travelers seeking to experience the extraordinary, the G318 offers unparalleled sights and stories. And at its western end, Nyalam stands as a symbol of resilience and renewal, inviting you to witness its rebirth firsthand.
G318 Highway: From Shanghai’s Bustle to the Border Jewel of Zhangmu
Spanning an impressive 5,476 kilometers, China National Highway 318 (G318) traverses the eastern, central, and western regions of China. This legendary route connects two vastly different worlds: the modern, bustling People’s Square in Shanghai and the serene Zhangmu Town in Tibet’s Nyalam County, where the Sino-Nepal Friendship Bridge stands.
Despite their stark contrasts, these two destinations are linked by a single road, weaving together a journey of culture, history, and natural wonders.
A Road to the Borderlands: Exploring Zhangmu
This July, we embarked on a westward journey along the G318, heading toward its terminus at the Sino-Nepal border. Once a thriving gateway to South Asia, Zhangmu Town was renowned for its flourishing border trade, earning the nickname “Little Hong Kong of Tibet.”
However, the devastating 8.1 magnitude earthquake in Nepal in 2015 brought this vibrant town to a halt. Zhangmu suffered extensive damage, transforming into a near-empty ghost town overnight. For eight years, its customs port remained closed, silencing the hustle and bustle that once defined it.
A Resilient Comeback: Zhangmu’s Revival
On September 1, 2022, the Zhangmu Port reopened for passenger traffic after years of reconstruction. Within just one year, the port had processed over 390,000 entries and exits, making it Tibet’s busiest border checkpoint.
This year, with multiple rebuilding efforts underway, Zhangmu is on track to regain its former glory. The restoration of infrastructure and trade routes has rekindled hope, and this pearl of the borderlands is set to shine once again.
Reaching the G318’s True Terminus
In Nyalam County, a popular landmark—the “G318 Highway Terminus Monument”—stands in a newly constructed plaza. Many travelers mistakenly believe this is where the highway ends. However, the true endpoint of the G318 lies 30 kilometers further west, at the Sino-Nepal Friendship Bridge in Zhangmu.
A Journey Through Drastic Contrasts
The final stretch of the G318 is a visual spectacle. Starting from Nyalam Town at an altitude of nearly 4,000 meters, the road descends sharply to 1,770 meters at Zhangmu. This dramatic elevation change transforms the landscape entirely.
Here, the typical arid scenery of the Tibetan Plateau gives way to lush, verdant valleys. The Zhangmu Gorge is filled with rivers, dense forests, and striking mountain views—more reminiscent of inland China than the high-altitude terrain of Tibet. For many visitors, this breathtaking contrast leaves an indelible impression.
Why the G318 and Zhangmu Should Be on Your Travel List
The G318 isn’t just a road—it’s a narrative of resilience and beauty. From the modern vibrancy of Shanghai to the quiet strength of Zhangmu, this highway captures the spirit of adventure and the power of rebuilding.
At the far western end, Zhangmu Town awaits as a symbol of hope, ready to welcome travelers with its unique blend of Tibetan culture and South Asian charm. Whether you’re drawn by the history, the landscapes, or the cultural encounters, this journey promises unforgettable memories.
The Rainy Season on G318: A Journey Through Peril and Beauty
The final stretch of the G318 Highway from Nyalam to Zhangmu offers breathtaking scenery, with lush green valleys, mist-covered mountains, and cascading waterfalls. However, during the rainy season, this journey transforms into a challenging expedition, showcasing both nature’s grandeur and its relentless power.
Descending into a Hidden Paradise
As the road winds downward from the lofty heights of the Tibetan Plateau, the landscape shifts dramatically. Below 3,000 meters, the dense forests create a whole new world, nourished by warm, moist air from the Indian Ocean. The abundant rainfall feeds slender waterfalls that cascade down the cliffs, resembling what one local driver poetically described as “white khatas draped over the mountains.”
The asphalt road snakes precariously through the steep terrain, and the booming Boqu River roars below, adding to the dramatic ambiance. The deeper you travel, the more surreal the surroundings become, as if nature has unveiled a secret sanctuary.
Navigating the Hazards of Rainy Season
But this beauty comes at a price. The rainy season often brings landslides, mudslides, and flash floods, turning the already treacherous route into a test of courage and skill. On this particular journey, heavy rain reduced visibility to almost nothing, making midday feel like dusk. Torrents of water gushed from cliffs overhead, and certain sections of the road had been washed out entirely.
Approaching the Friendship Tunnel, we were forced to stop due to ongoing repairs on a dangerously unstable section. The delay was inevitable, as construction crews worked tirelessly to stabilize the road and ensure the safety of travelers.
Life on the Edge: Stories from the Road Crew
The dedication of those maintaining the G318 becomes strikingly evident during such moments. Basang Zhuoma, a 21-year-old Tibetan woman, sat shivering under a plastic sheet by the roadside, tasked with regulating traffic. Her job is to monitor vehicles and ensure no one advances until it’s safe.
“Half the year is rainy,” she explained, her voice weary but resolute. Landslides and road collapses are common, and the work of maintaining the road is both hazardous and relentless. “We repair the road almost every other day,” she said.
Basang is no stranger to hardship. A mother of two, she once tended sheep and cared for her children at home, earning only 2,000 yuan per month. Now, as a temporary road maintenance worker alongside her husband, she earns 200 yuan per day. While the income is better, the grueling work leaves her longing for her family.
A Journey of Awe and Respect
Traveling the G318 during the rainy season is not for the faint-hearted. From towering cliffs and roaring rivers to the selfless road workers ensuring safe passage, every moment is a testament to the resilience of both people and nature.
For those who dare to venture along this iconic highway, the challenges are part of the experience. The peril amplifies the beauty, and the stories of courage and endurance from people like Basang Zhuoma leave a lasting impression.
Zhangmu Town: From “Empty City” to Revival
Nestled precariously on the mountainside, Zhangmu Town is a place that leaves a lasting impression on all who visit. Accessible via the narrow and winding end of the G318 Highway, this once-thriving border town now tells a story of resilience and recovery after the devastation of the 2015 earthquake.
The Unique Setting of Zhangmu Town
Zhangmu is perched on steep slopes, with roads forming sharp “Z” curves at inclines of over 30 degrees. The G318 Highway here narrows to less than 10 meters, doubling as the town’s only street. Buildings of varying heights hug the mountainside, each constructed along the curves of the road.
Despite its modest size, Zhangmu was once a bustling hub. Its name, meaning “neighboring port” in Tibetan, reflects its strategic location on the Sino-Nepal border. Just 120 kilometers from Kathmandu and 750 kilometers from Lhasa, Zhangmu was Tibet’s largest Class-A land port after its opening in 1965.
A Flourishing Trade Gateway
Before the 1950s, Zhangmu was a remote and isolated village with just 300 residents. But as trade routes developed, the town flourished. At its peak, it handled over 80% of China-Nepal trade, becoming a magnet for merchants, tourists, pilgrims, mountaineering teams, and scientific expeditions traversing the Himalayas.
At its busiest, the population swelled to over 50,000—2.5 times the population of Nyalam County. Zhangmu even hosted a branch of the People’s Bank of China, underscoring its economic importance. This vibrant trade and cultural activity earned it the nickname “Tibet’s Little Hong Kong.”
Devastation from the Earthquake
Everything changed on April 25, 2015, when a devastating 8.1-magnitude earthquake struck Nepal. Zhangmu, located just 120 kilometers away, bore the brunt of the destruction. Entire neighborhoods were reduced to rubble, with buildings leaning precariously or showing massive cracks in their walls. The damage forced all residents to evacuate to a newly built settlement in Shigatse City, supported by the government.
The closure of the port, combined with years of pandemic-related disruptions, left Zhangmu virtually deserted. Once lively streets lined with restaurants, guesthouses, clothing stores, Nepalese eateries, bars, and internet cafes became eerily silent. Signs in Tibetan, Chinese, and English still hang above abandoned buildings, whispering echoes of the town’s bustling past.
Signs of Hope and Revival
Today, Zhangmu is slowly regaining life. The reopening of the border in September 2022 for passenger traffic marked the beginning of a potential comeback. Over 390,000 people crossed through Zhangmu within a year, making it the busiest port in Tibet. With reconstruction efforts underway, the “empty city” may soon reclaim its former glory as a gateway of trade and culture between China and Nepal.
A Glimpse of Zhangmu’s Resilience
For visitors driving along the G318 Highway, Zhangmu offers a poignant reminder of both the fragility and strength of human endeavors. From its heyday as a vibrant trade center to its near-abandonment and slow recovery, this little town on the mountainside holds stories of perseverance and hope, waiting to be rediscovered.
Zhangmu Town: Revival Amidst Reconstruction
Once eerily silent, Zhangmu Town is now buzzing with signs of life as it embarks on a journey of restoration. Nestled on the steep slopes of the Himalayas, this once-flourishing trade hub at the end of the G318 Highway is steadily regaining its vitality, fueled by ambitious rebuilding efforts and a shared hope for its future.
A Shift from Deserted Streets to Renewed Energy
“Last year, Zhangmu felt like a ghost town—empty streets, stray dogs, and an unsettling silence,” recounted a driver who frequently travels the G318. “But now, there’s a noticeable buzz. It feels alive again.”
This transformation reflects the priorities set by the Tibet Autonomous Region government, which in its annual report emphasized the goal to “restore and reconstruct Zhangmu Town to its former prosperity with high standards.” A detailed plan to modernize Zhangmu as a gateway to South Asia and a distinctive border town is now in full swing.
Rebuilding Amidst Ruins
Driving through Zhangmu, the roads are lined with cars and construction vehicles, and workers are busy clearing rubble from damaged buildings. According to a project manager from China Communications Construction, significant progress has already been made in surveying the geological conditions of the town. Risk zones have been reinforced, and 2024 marks the official commencement of large-scale reconstruction activities.
Evenings in Zhangmu now bring unique moments of communal life. When a sudden power outage left the town in darkness, locals and workers flocked to the only grocery store, where candles and phone lights illuminated the bustling scene. “I haven’t seen this many people in ages!” exclaimed the store owner, overwhelmed but delighted by the activity.
The Path to the Friendship Bridge
The next morning, we set out toward the Friendship Bridge, the final destination of the G318 Highway. Connecting China and Nepal, this iconic structure symbolizes the cultural and economic ties between the two nations. However, the journey to the bridge underscored the challenges of operating in Zhangmu’s rugged environment.
Heavy rains had dislodged a massive boulder the previous night, cutting off the road just four kilometers from the bridge. Faced with an uncertain repair timeline, we decided to complete the journey on foot. The experience served as a reminder of the formidable obstacles Zhangmu continues to face, even as it moves toward revival.
A Border Town Reclaiming Its Role
Zhangmu’s rebuilding efforts are more than just physical—they are symbolic of its importance as Tibet’s busiest border port. With the reopening of the port in September 2022, Zhangmu has already welcomed over 390,000 travelers, reaffirming its status as a critical gateway for trade and tourism.
As Zhangmu Town transforms into a modern border city, it retains its charm as a place where natural beauty, cultural heritage, and human resilience converge. From the echoes of its prosperous past to the promise of its future, Zhangmu stands as a testament to the spirit of rebuilding and renewal.
Zhangmu Port: A Gateway Restored
The second morning of our journey brought us closer to the famed Friendship Bridge, the ultimate terminus of the G318 Highway. However, the night’s relentless rain had sent a massive boulder tumbling down, blocking the road just four kilometers from our destination. Undeterred, we decided to continue on foot, navigating the rugged terrain that underscored the challenges of life in this Himalayan border town.
A History of Growth and Transformation
Our guide, a long-time worker at Zhangmu, shared stories of the port’s past as we walked. Fourteen years of witnessing Zhangmu’s evolution had made him a living chronicle of its history.
He recounted how, before the 1980s, Zhangmu’s annual trade barely amounted to a few thousand yuan. This changed in 1983, when China’s reform and opening-up policy extended to the Himalayas. That year, Zhangmu was officially designated as a first-class national trading port by the State Council, igniting its transformation into a bustling trade hub.
The momentum continued into the 21st century. In 2009, the completion of a large-scale reconstruction of the China-Nepal Highway allowed travelers to reach Zhangmu from Lhasa in just one day. That same year, the construction of a new Joint Inspection Building brought modern infrastructure to the port, cementing its role as a “golden corridor” for trade between Tibet and South Asia.
Arrival at the Friendship Bridge
As we approached, the roar of the Boqu River grew louder, and soon, a majestic bridge spanned the rushing waters. At the bridgehead stood the imposing Zhangmu Port Monument and the border marker of the People’s Republic of China.
The Friendship Bridge itself marks not just the boundary between China and Nepal but also the end of the G318 Highway. The iron gate at the center of the bridge symbolizes the meeting point of two nations, a place where culture and commerce have intertwined for decades.
Reaching this iconic landmark felt like arriving at the edge of two worlds—the high-altitude Tibetan Plateau and the lush green valleys descending toward Nepal. It’s a place where history meets the present, embodying the resilience of Zhangmu’s people and the enduring significance of its role as a vital link between nations.
Zhangmu Port: From Devastation to Revival
The 2015 Nepal earthquake dealt a devastating blow to Zhangmu Port, halting its operations and leaving its once-thriving community in ruins. For years, the port’s functions remained severely limited. However, in May 2019, Zhangmu took its first step toward recovery with the reopening of its cargo export channel to Nepal. Full restoration came only in May 2023, when two-way trade resumed, followed by the reopening of passenger services in September 2023.
A Remarkable Year of Growth
In just one year since its full reopening, Zhangmu Port has reasserted itself as Tibet’s busiest border crossing:
- Trade Value: 24.4 billion RMB.
- Trade Volume: 96,000 tons of goods.
- Border Crossings: 394,700 people, accounting for 74.14% of Tibet’s total during the period.
The vibrant activity at the port is most evident in the colorful TATA trucks—the lifeline of Sino-Nepal trade. Adorned with flags, graffiti proclaiming “China-Nepal Friendship” and “Brothers Forever,” and other decorations, these trucks shuttle goods in and out every few minutes.
A Community’s Hope for the Future
Locals like Nima, a lifelong Zhangmu resident, have started to rebuild their lives. Nima’s family moved to resettlement housing in Zhangmu New Area, Shigatse, after the earthquake, but he recently returned to the port. Through a government lottery, he secured a rental shop near the border and now runs a general store.
Over breakfast, Nima shared his optimism:
“We all miss Zhangmu. I’m looking forward to seeing the town fully rebuilt in five years. By then, I hope my family and neighbors can return, and we’ll make our hometown as bustling and prosperous as the ‘Little Hong Kong of Tibet’ it once was.”
The journey of Zhangmu Port, from near collapse to becoming a key hub of international trade and travel, is a testament to resilience, community spirit, and the enduring vision of its people to restore its former glory.
