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Ngari Region: Mountains, Rivers, and Sacred Sites in Tibet

The Ngari region, which belongs to the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, is known as the “ancestor of thousands of mountains” and “the source of hundreds of rivers.”

It starts from Zamei Mountain to the west of Tanggula Mountain in the east and is connected to the Nagqu region. To the southeast, it borders Zhongba, Saga, and Angren counties in Shigatse Prefecture in the middle part of the Gangdise Mountains. To the north, it leans on the southern foot of the Kunlun Mountains and is adjacent to Kashgar and Hotan regions in Xinjiang. The southwest is connected to the western section of the Himalayas, and it is adjacent to Kashmir, India, and Nepal. Around 843 AD, local separatist regimes were established, and Ali appeared as a place name.

The Ali region is vast and has many scenic spots, but the main attractions are concentrated in Pulan County, Zada ​​County, and Ritu County. Some other scenic spots are distributed in other counties of Ali.

When coming to Ali, Pulan, with its sacred mountains and holy lakes, cannot be missed. In addition, Zada, with its unique landforms and ruins of the Guge Dynasty, is also worth a visit. Other attractions must be decided according to personal time arrangements and chartered itineraries.

Pulan County – Mount Kailash

Mount Kailash is located north of the holy Lake Manasarovar in Purang County. It means “Mountain of the Gods” in Tibetan and “Shiva’s Paradise” in Sanskrit. With an altitude of 6,721 meters, it is a world-recognized sacred mountain, regarded by Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism, Bon religion, and ancient Jainism as the center of the world. The peak is covered with ice and snow all year round, and the four walls of the peak are symmetrical, forming a round-crown pyramid. Its snow-covered peak all year round shines with a strange light in the sunlight, making it increasingly mysterious.

Looking from the south, you can see its famous symbol: a Buddhist swastika formed by a huge ice channel vertically descending from the peak and a horizontal rock formation. Because of its sacred religious status, Kailash has always been a fascinating place for pilgrims and explorers. Every year, there is an endless stream of pilgrims from India, Nepal, Bhutan, and major Tibetan areas in my country. Mount Kailash has gradually become a popular hiking route for travel enthusiasts.

Tickets: Combined ticket for the Holy Mountain and Holy Lake: 200 yuan
Opening hours: All day
Address: North of Manasarovar Lake, the Holy Lake in Burang County

Manasarovar Lake

Manasarovar Lake is located 20 kilometers southeast of Mount Kailash, with an altitude of 4,588 meters. It is the highest freshwater lake in the world and the most transparent lake in China.

Tibetan means “eternal Jasper Lake.” It is one of the three holy lakes in Tibetan areas and the birthplace of the four major rivers in Asia: the Indus, Ganges, Sutlej, and Brahmaputra. Therefore, it is called the “Mother of Rivers.”

The eminent monk Xuanzang of the Tang Dynasty also described Manasarovar Lake in his book “The Western Regions of the Tang Dynasty,” calling it the “Western Yaochi.” As a worldwide holy lake, every year in India, Nepal, Bhutan, and various Tibetan areas, believers from all over the world come to bathe in the holy waters to seek merit. Pilgrims can gain immeasurable merit by circumambulating the lake.

In addition to its extraordinary significance to pilgrims, Manasarovar Lake, as the king of the holy lakes, is also a place not to be missed for ordinary tourists. The legends and stories of Manasarovar Lake that have been passed down through the ages, not to mention its outstanding religious status, its otherworldly and beautiful scenery alone is enough to captivate anyone.

Tickets: 200 yuan combined ticket for the Holy Mountain and Holy Lake
Opening hours: All day
Address: 35 kilometers east of Pulan County

Rakshastal (Ghost Lake)

Rakshastal, known as Ghost Lake, means “poisonous black lake” in Tibetan. It is located in Purang County, Ngari Prefecture, at an altitude of 4,574 meters. It is separated from the holy Lake Manasarovar by the road and is a saltwater lake.

Rakshastal is a close neighbor of the Holy Lake. The scenery is equally beautiful, and the lake water is mesmerizingly blue. The Holy Lake and the Ghost Lake were originally one lake. Due to climate change, the lake retreated, and the water level dropped. Only then were they separated by a long and narrow hill.

The water of the Holy Lake is refreshing and sweet, but the water of the Ghost Lake is bitter and hard to swallow. The sky above Manasarovar Lake is clear, but clouds roll over Rakshastal, creating a spectacular sight.

Strolling by the lake, the cold wind blows in your face, and the sound of the waves is heart-stirring. Standing on the shore of the Ghost Lake, it feels like you’re standing on the edge of the universe, with only the vast, lonely snow-capped mountains for company.

Namunani Peak

Namunani Peak is called the “Mountain of the Holy Mother” or “Goddess Peak” by Tibetans. At an altitude of 7,694 meters, it is located in the western section of the Himalayas, far opposite the sacred Mount Kailash. It is the legendary partner of Kailash.

The ridges on the west are arranged in a fan shape from north to south. The only ridge on the east has been eroded into a blade ridge, which is very steep, forming a cliff with a height difference of nearly 2,000 meters.

In comparison, the slope on the west is gentler, with five huge glaciers cascading between the canyons. The ice surface is covered with ice cracks and ice cliffs. The main water supply of the Holy Lake Manasarovar comes from Namuna Snow on the Ni Glacier.

Jiwu Temple

Located to the west of Manasarovar Lake, Jiwu Temple is one of the eight temples around the lake, serving as the starting point for people visiting the lake. According to legend, it was the place where Master Padmasambhava practiced for seven days in his later years. There is still a footprint of the master on the rock. The temple is located on the top of a mountain and consists of two buildings.

The south is mainly a place for chanting sutras, burning incense, and worshiping Buddha. The “castle” built with Mani piles is very spectacular. The north is mainly a place for Mani piles, with neatly arranged Mani piles of various colors and cow heads with scriptures engraved on them.

The temple is located between Manasarovar and Laangtso. Looking east from the temple is Manasarovar, and looking to the west, you can see a corner of Laangtso.

Koga Temple

Koga Temple is situated in Koga, approximately 100 kilometers southeast of Ali Purang County. The Manjushri Bodhisattva is enshrined in the temple, having received blessings from the eminent monk Rinchen Sangshi. The name of the temple is derived from the place’s name, Ko Ga, and it now belongs to the Sakya Sect.

Koga Temple is very close to Nepal, located on the southern slope of the Himalayas. It boasts a warm climate and pleasant scenery, making it a gateway to Purang from Nepal. Travelers frequently encounter a variety of exotic tourists, some of them unusually dressed and arriving on foot or with small iron tubes. They are usually on their way to explore this unique region.

Nepal Building and Puran International Market

Nepal Building is situated north of Pulan County. As you cross the Kongque River, you’ll notice a 50-meter-high hillside on the roadside, covered with natural caves, some of which are remnants of old temples. Today, many Indians and Nepalis cross the border to conduct business in Purang and temporarily reside in these caves to save money. Locals have aptly named this hillside the “Nepal Tower.”

Just ten minutes’ travel west of Nepal Building, across a hill, you’ll reach the Pulan International Trade Market, also known as the Thangka Market. It’s a simple yet fascinating “international trade market,” featuring rows of low houses where mainly Nepalese vendors sell spices, fabrics, jewelry, and coffee from Nepal and India. You’ll also find some tea rooms and billiard tables. The Dongfengqiao area sees traders from India, Nepal, and other Tibetan regions making a living.

Zada County

Zada Earth Forest: Zada Earth Forest is located in Alizada County and was shaped by geological changes in ancient lake basins and riverbeds over thousands of years. This landscape is a unique result of water erosion and weathering. Against the backdrop of the ever-changing plateau light and shadows, it looks like something out of a mythic world. Here, you’ll also find the ruins of palaces and monasteries from the powerful Guge Kingdom.

Upon entering Zada Earth Forest, you’ll witness earth forests on both sides of the Xiangquan River, stretching for dozens of miles with various shapes. They might resemble grand temples, fortified watchtowers, towering pagodas, and impressive buildings. These natural formations, which evoke various images, have been shaped over time and are surrounded by the mystical earth forests. The area with the most extensive development of the Zada soil forest landform is the large region centered on Tuolin Town.

Ruins of the Guge Dynasty: Located on the banks of the Xiangquan River in Tuolin Town, the Guge Dynasty ruins were built by the descendants of the Tubo royal family. This impressive complex, with a history of 1,300 years, consists of caves, pagodas, watchtowers, temples, and palaces, all arranged in an orderly manner on a steep, over 300-meter-high loess slope. The ruins of this ancient castle merge seamlessly with the surrounding earth forest, creating an enchanting and somewhat tragic beauty when bathed in the morning or evening light.

Tuolin Temple: Situated on the bank of the Xiangquan River in the northwest of Zada County, Tuolin Temple was built in the Northern Song Dynasty and represents the first Buddhist temple constructed by the Guge Kingdom in the Ali region. Tuolin means “flying in the air and never falling,” hence its alternative name, the “Flying Temple.” The temple harmoniously combines architectural styles from India, Nepal, and Tibet. It is surrounded by earth mountains to the south and Langqin Zangbo to the north. The temple complex includes halls, pagodas, pagoda walls, and monks’ residences, giving the place an extraordinary view when observed from a distance. Due to historical factors, the temple has suffered varying degrees of damage, but three main halls and one pagoda have been well preserved.

Dongga Piyang Cave Murals: The cave mural site in Zada County, consisting of two neighboring villages called Dongga and Piyang, is the largest ancient Buddhist cave site found in China to date. The Dongga part comprises a group of grottoes, the largest ancient Buddhist cave ruins discovered in China. The Piyang part, situated in Piyang Village, is a vast complex made up of temples, castles, grottoes, and pagodas. The combined scale of the ruins is more extensive than that of Dongga. The cave murals, nearly a thousand years old, feature Buddha statues, Bodhisattva statues, Buddhist narratives, Dharma diagrams, decorative patterns, Tantric mandalas, and more, all holding significant archaeological and research value.

Ritu County

Ritu Rock Paintings: Ritu rock paintings refer to several rock painting remains found in Ritu County, Ali, including Renmudong, Lurisangka, Qiakesang, and Agou rock paintings. These murals, carved or painted on hard stones or rock surfaces, depict a wide array of themes, including animals, natural scenes (such as the sun, moon, mountains, and plants), and social scenes (hunting, herding, dancing, riding), as well as content reflecting reproductive worship.

Pangong Tso (Pangong Lake): Pangong Lake, which means “long-necked swan” in Tibetan, features the world’s highest bird island. It is located about 12 kilometers northwest of Ritu County, forming an international lake along the border with Kashmir. While the lake itself extends into India, the part within China’s territory contains salty, bitter water and cannot be consumed. Thousands of gulls, geese, and ducks inhabit the Bird Island within the lake. In the summer, tens of thousands of Mediterranean gulls come here to breed, creating a breathtaking spectacle. You can take a cruise ship to Bird Island from Pangong Tso Pier or rent a fishing boat to explore the lake.

Other Areas

Zhari Namco: Located in Cuoqin County, Zhari Namtso, also known as Tare Co and Trinam Co, is the third-largest lake in Tibet and a famous national wetland. This saltwater lake is situated in the alpine grassland zone of northern Tibet and is a cold, arid region. It thrives as a pure pastoral area, with flourishing plant life on its shores, including Carex and Stipa, growing up to 20-30 cm high, making it one of Tibet’s best pastures in the north.

Purogangri Glacier: Located 90 kilometers northeast of Shuanghu Special Zone in the northwest of Qiangtang, the Purogangri Glacier is the third largest glacier in the world, after those in the Antarctic and the Arctic. It is often referred to as the “third pole” and is the largest glacier in a latitude region. The glacier is within the core area of the Qiangtang Nature Reserve, where you can spot herds of Tibetan antelopes, wild yaks, wild donkeys, and other wildlife along the way and in the surrounding areas. From November to April of the following year, visitors can enjoy the wonders of the plateau lake, Linggecuo, including winter ice walls, ice caves, and other phenomena. The region retains its unspoiled nature and primal ambiance, making it a destination worth visiting for nature enthusiasts and explorers.

Japanese Rock Paintings: Ritu rock paintings, including Renmudong, Lurisangka, Qiakesang, Agou rock paintings, are ancient rock art found in Ritu County, Ali. These rock paintings are etched into hard stones or rock surfaces, often featuring a range of themes. These include depictions of animals, natural scenes such as the sun, moon, mountains, and plants, and social scenes like hunting, herding, dancing, and riding. They also depict content reflecting elements of reproductive worship.

Pangong Tso (Pangong Lake) (Continued): This breathtaking lake, known as Pangong Lake, translates to “long-necked swan” in Tibetan. It’s located about 12 kilometers northwest of Ritu County, bordering the region of Kashmir. While it spans into India, the part within China’s territory has salty, bitter water and is not suitable for drinking. The lake is famous for being home to the highest bird island in the world, and thousands of gulls, geese, and ducks can be seen here. During the summer, tens of thousands of Mediterranean gulls come here to breed. They fill the sky with their flights, creating a mesmerizing sight that showcases the natural wonders of the Ali Plateau.

Other Areas

Zhari Namco (Continued): Zhari Namco is situated in Cuoqin County, northern Tibet, within the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. It’s known by several names, including Tare Co and Trinam Co. This lake is located at an elevation of 4,613 meters above sea level and covers an expansive water area of 1,023 square kilometers. It is the third-largest lake in Tibet and is recognized as a significant national wetland. Notably, Zhari Namco is a saltwater lake. The lake area falls within the alpine grassland zone of northern Tibet and experiences a cold, arid climate. The surrounding region primarily serves as pastoral land. Vegetation, especially Carex and Stipa, thrives on the lake’s shores, with some grasses reaching heights of 20-30 cm, making it one of the favored pastures for Tibetan herders in the northern region.

Purogangri Glacier (Continued): Located in the core area of the Qiangtang Nature Reserve, the Purogangri Glacier is often referred to as the “third pole” due to its massive size and significance. It’s the third largest glacier globally, after those in the Antarctic and the Arctic. The glacier is considered the largest glacier in the latitude region. It is an area of pristine, untouched natural beauty where travelers can witness Tibetan antelopes, wild yaks, wild donkeys, and other wildlife. The period from November to April of the following year offers a chance to appreciate the wonders of the plateau lake, Linggecuo, including ice walls and caves. This remote destination preserves the allure of unexplored wilderness and a primitive atmosphere, making it a must-visit location for those interested in natural beauty and adventure.

This provides an overview of the magnificent natural and cultural sites in Ali, Tibet, offering visitors a glimpse of the region’s diverse landscapes and rich history. Ali is indeed a place of awe-inspiring beauty, where visitors can experience the wonders of Tibet’s high plateaus, sacred lakes, ancient temples, and unique geological formations.

About the author

The Tibetan Travel website's creator, hailing from Lhasa, is a cultural enthusiast. They promote responsible tourism, connecting the world to Tibet's beauty and heritage. Awards recognize their contribution.

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