Gongbu Attire: The Unique Traditional Dress of Linzhi Tibet
Gongbu attire, locally known as rdong-chas, is one of the most distinctive traditional clothing styles in Tibet. Originating in the Gongbu region of Linzhi (Nyingchi), this traditional dress has been officially recognized as a national-level intangible cultural heritage of China. With its bold structure, practical design, and deep historical meaning, Kongpo attire reflects both the harsh natural environment and the heroic spirit of the Gongbu people.
What Is Gongbu Attire (Mgo-shubs)?
No matter the season, Kongpo men and women traditionally wear a special outer garment called mgo-shubs. This unique piece of clothing is collarless and sleeveless, designed to be worn over inner robes. Its simple yet powerful silhouette sets it apart from other Tibetan costumes.
The mgo-shubs is usually made from black or dark brown felt. In some cases, it is crafted from sheepskin or animal hide, making it durable and suitable for life in the forests and mountains of southeastern Tibet.
Materials and Craftsmanship of Gongbu Clothing
Among all Kongpo garments, the most prized mgo-shubs are made from the hide of a Himalayan yak known locally as jia guo na. This high-quality leather is thick, weather-resistant, and extremely warm, offering protection during:
- Wood chopping
- Hunting trips
- Long journeys through rain and snow
- Encounters with wild animals
These practical features show how Gongbu attire evolved to meet both environmental and daily survival needs.
Traditional Accessories: Hats and Boots
Gongbu attire is always paired with distinctive accessories that complete the look:
- Kong Zha: A felt hat shaped like a soldier’s cap
- Ga luo: Heavy boots with leather soles, ideal for mountain terrain
Together with the mgo-shubs, these items form a complete and functional traditional outfit that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.
Festival Gongbu Attire: Beauty and Symbolism
During festivals and special occasions, Gongbu attire becomes far more decorative. Men’s mgo-shubs are adorned with:
- Silver satin edges
- Gold silk patterns around the neckline and waist
- Silver ornaments attached to belts
These festive versions demonstrate the refined craftsmanship and aesthetic values of the Gongbu people.
Women’s Gongbu Attire: Rich Layers and Elegant Detail
Women’s Gongbu clothing is even more elaborate and visually striking. Their mgo-shubs often feature:
- Gold-threaded floral borders
- One-inch-wide otter fur trimmings
- Inner layers made of monkey fur mgo-shubs
Over these layers, women wear satin robes in rich colors such as sapphire blue or crimson red, adding elegance and status to the outfit.
The Gongbu Hat and Its Meaning
One of the most symbolic elements of women’s attire is the boat-shaped Gongbu hat, decorated with golden edges. The brim forms a swallowtail shape, and how it is worn carries social meaning:
- Hat corner pointing right: Unmarried
- Hat corner pointing left: Married
This subtle detail serves as a visual language within the Gongbu community.
The Legend Behind Gongbu Attire
The history of mgo-shubs dates back more than 700 years, deeply rooted in Gongbu folklore. According to legend, the garment originated as a funerary outfit for King Gyalpo, the heroic ruler of the Gongbu tribe.
King Gyalpo was admired for his wisdom and bravery, leading his people into a prosperous era. When enemies invaded the region, he personally led his warriors into battle. Though they fought valiantly, the enemy forces were overwhelming. Most warriors were killed, and the king was captured, mutilated, and left in the wilderness.
A Garment of Memory and Loyalty
After learning of the king’s tragic fate, the Gongbu people mourned deeply. Elderly women of the tribe crafted a sleeveless garment so that the king’s injured body could be dressed with dignity. To honor his sacrifice, the people adopted this garment as their own, naming it mgo-shubs.
From that moment on, Gongbu attire became a symbol of loyalty, courage, and collective memory, passed down from generation to generation.
Gongbu Attire as Intangible Cultural Heritage
Today, Linzhi Gongbu Attire is officially listed as part of the second batch of national-level intangible cultural heritage. Linzhi is home to 63 registered intangible cultural heritage projects, including three at the national level:
- Gongbu Attire
- Milin Luoba Ethnic Attire
- Milin Luoba Ancestor Legends
These traditions continue to play an important role in preserving the cultural identity of southeastern Tibet.