The Four Noble Classes of Old Tibet: The Rise of the Midrak Aristocracy
In modern times, the aristocracy of Old Tibet was divided into four distinct classes based on family background, political power, and other factors. These classes were: Yabshi ཡབ་གཞིས, Depon སྡེ་དཔོན, Midrak མི་དྲག, and Gerpa སྒེར་པ. Among these, the Midrak class, often described as “strong and valiant” in Tibetan, stood out for its unique legacy and influence.
The Midrak Aristocracy: Key Characteristics and Historical Influence
The term Midrak refers to individuals of immense strength and valor. Notably, every family in the Midrak aristocracy included at least one individual who served as a Kalon (a high-ranking government official). Historical texts indicate that around 30 Midrak families rose to prominence in Tibet, many of whom wielded substantial power and held high social positions.
One of the most notable families within the Midrak aristocracy was the Shatra family, which produced six Kalon (government ministers), one regent, and a chief judge (Dasilun). These figures were pivotal in Tibet’s political and religious history.
The Origins of the Shatra Family Name
The name Shatra first appeared in historical texts as Shatra Opa, which refers to a prominent family estate located near Ganden Monastery. According to legend, the estate’s name, Ganden Shara Opa Kshika (དགའ་ལྡན་བཤདར་འོག་པ་གཞིས་ཀ), can be traced back to the 5th Dalai Lama’s biography. This historical reference suggests that the family’s roots were deeply embedded in Tibetan political and religious life from the 17th century.
Some accounts also suggest that the Shatra family has ties to the Tubo Dynasty, though these claims are based on oral traditions, and there is no concrete historical evidence to verify this. Further research is needed to uncover the full truth behind these origins.
The Shatra Family: A Legacy of Influence and Power
Family of Shatra, originally referred to as Shera Horpa བཤད་ར་ཧོར་པ, played an important role in the development of Tibetan Buddhism and politics. The Shatra family (Shatra Opa), one of Tibet’s most prominent aristocratic families, holds a rich history dating back to the early Tibetan kingdoms. Known for its influence in the former Tibetan government, the Shatra family’s name and legacy are tied to centuries of history. The name “Shatra” is believed to originate from a large estate near Ganden Monastery, a place that played a crucial role in the early formation of Tibetan nobility.
The term Shera did not have a specific meaning, but over time, due to phonetic changes or transliteration, it evolved into Shatra (བཤད་སྒྲ་ཧོར་པ), a name that became synonymous with power and authority.
Shatra’s Role in Tibetan Politics: From the 15th Century to the 5th Dalai Lama
Historically, the Shatra family began to gain recognition during the time of Tsongkhapa (1357-1419), the founder of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism. According to the Biography of the 5th Dalai Lama, Tsongkhapa stayed at the Shatra family estate in Ganden Shara while spreading his teachings of the Gelug sect. During this period, the Shatra family members were involved in the administrative duties of the Pakdru Dynasty, serving as “Nangso” (ནང་སོ), a low-ranking official who performed surveillance duties along Tibet’s borders.
The family’s political significance grew when they became involved in the 5th Dalai Lama’s reign. During a visit to Ganden Monastery, the 5th Dalai Lama was gifted holy relics by the family, including a Buddha statue made by Tsongkhapa himself. The Dalai Lama was deeply moved by these offerings and solidified the family’s importance. The 5th Dalai Lama publicly declaring, “Ganden Shara Opa Kshika (དགའ་ལྡན་བཤདར་འོག་པ་གཞིས་ཀ) shall forever belong to Nangso Shara Opa.” This moment marked the beginning of the Shatra family’s growing political influence.
Renaming and Further Consolidation of Power
In the 17th century, during the reign of the Eighth Dalai Lama, Jampal Gyatso (1758–1804), the Shatra family decided that the name Shatra Horpa Langsok no longer carried the depth of meaning they desired. They chose to rename the family estate to Shatra Horpa (བཤད་སྒྲ་འོག་པ), symbolizing a deeper connection with the Ganden Monastery and its teachings. This name gradually became shorthand for the family, symbolizing their status as prominent benefactors of Tibetan Buddhism. The name continues to be used to this day.
The Rise of Shatra Family Power: The 8th Dalai Lama’s Reign
During the reign of the 8th Dalai Lama (1758–1804), the Shatra family underwent an important name change. The family estate’s original name was altered from Shara to Shatra Opa Kshika. (The Shatra Mansion (བཤད་སྒྲ་ཕུན་ཚོགས་ཁང་བཟང་།), This change was significant in reinforcing their status within the Tibetan aristocracy.
Shatra Kunga Paljor’s Early Career: A Path to Political Power
Shatra Kunga Paljor (夏扎·贡嘎班觉), known as the founding figure of the Shatra family, played an instrumental role in shaping Tibetan aristocracy and politics during the 18th century. His strategic leadership, military achievements, and political acumen not only propelled his family to the heights of Tibetan society but also solidified the Shatra family’s lasting influence within the Tibetan government and noble circles.
In 1775, Shatra Kunga Paljor was appointed the Zongpon of the Sholgan region at the request of his teacher, Yeshi Gyatso. This position marked his entry into the Tibetan governmental structure, offering him the chance to establish connections and create a foundation for his family’s future. His rise to power opened doors not only for his personal career but also for the subsequent success of the Shatra family.
The Gorkha Invasions: Shatra’s Role in Defending Tibet
The year 1788 marked the beginning of a turbulent period in Tibet’s history, as the Gorkhas (Nepalese forces) launched their first invasion of Tibet, occupying several border regions. In 1791, the Gorkhas invaded Tibet again, plundering Tashilhunpo Monastery and stealing its valuable assets. In response, the Qing Dynasty sent Fu Kang’an with a military force to aid Tibet.
During this period, the 5th Dalai Lama assigned Shatra Kunga Paljor to replace the deceased Horkang and lead the defense against the Gorkhas. Shatra Kunga Paljor recapture the territories lost to the Gorkhas, successfully securing Tibet’s borders. This military victory enhanced Shatra Kunga Paljor’s reputation and further strengthened the position of the Shatra family in Tibet.
Shatra Kunga Paljor’s Promotion and Rise to Prominence
Following his military success, Shatra Kunga Paljor was promoted to Gyalpo (Kalon) in 1793, an esteemed position that further elevated his status in the Tibetan aristocracy. This promotion placed him at the heart of Tibetan political power, strengthening the influence of the Shatra family within both the Tibetan government and the broader noble class.
Shatra Kunga Paljor’s rise to Gyalpo also marked a turning point for the Shatra family, securing them a lasting presence in Tibet’s political landscape. His legacy as a military leader and political figure established the Shatra family as one of the most respected and powerful noble houses in Tibetan history.
The Shatra Family’s Inheritance and Recognition
Shatra Kunga Paljor had two sons: his eldest son, Dhundup Dorje, and his younger son, Gonpo Tenzin, who initially entered monastic life before later returning to lay life and taking up a government position.
In 1794, a special decree issued by the Regent Tenpa Gonpo and two Tibetan ministers conferred a royal reward from the 8th Dalai Lama to the descendants of Shatra Kunga Paljor. This decree granted the Shatra family hereditary lands and assets in the Nyemu region, including Drago Kshika.
The Shatra Family Legacy: Modern Times
Today, the Shatra family is remembered for its centuries-long contributions to Tibetan political life. Members of the family, such as Gonpo Gyalpo Shatra and Tondu Dorje, have held prestigious positions in the Tibetan Ganden Phodrang government.
Notably, Gonpo Gyalpo Shatra’s descendants continued to serve the government in various high-ranking roles, including Ziben, Gyalpo, and Siling positions. The family’s contributions are commemorated in modern Tibet, where the Shatra Mansion and its historical significance remain a key part of the cultural heritage of Lhasa.
自噶伦夏扎·贡嘎班觉起，夏扎家族中担任过西藏地方政府高级官员的就有：
- 噶伦（བཀའ་བློན།）Shatra Kunga Paljor
- 噶伦（བཀའ་བློན།）Shatra Dundup Dorjee
- 第司（སྡེ་སྲིད།）Shatra Wangchuk Gyalpo
- 噶伦（བཀའ་བློན།）Shatra Tsering Wangchuk
- 孜本（རྩེ་དཔོན།།）Shatra Gyurmey Wangchuk
- 司伦（སྲིད་བློན།）Shatra Paljor Dorje
- 四品官 Shatra Ganden paljor
Architectural Details and Layout of the Shatra Mansion
According to the Lhasa Historical City Atlas, the Shatra Mansion can be accessed via a narrow alleyway called Bakor Rebsal East Road (nowadays referred to as Rabsel or Lugu six alley in modern maps). This alley, branching off from Bakhor South Street, is lined with small shops along the exterior walls. The mansion’s main gate, a robust wooden structure, is wide enough to accommodate a horse-drawn carriage or a small car.
Inside, a spacious courtyard (21m x 24m) features a well surrounded by carved stone slabs, with an engraved stone block serving as a stepping stone for mounting horses. The courtyard also includes an intricate stone fence around the well and a series of covered walkways leading to the upper levels of the mansion.
The Layout of the Shatra Mansion
The Shatra Mansion is designed with the traditional Tibetan architectural principle of north-south alignment. The estate consists of two main sections: the front yard and the rear Tibetan-style building. The front yard is a rectangular stone-paved courtyard, while the back is a traditional Tibetan multi-story house. The east, south, and west sides of the courtyard are lined with two-story Tibetan-style buildings, with the main entrance located on the southern side. The entire courtyard is surrounded by two-tier Tibetan-style corridors, providing access to the upper levels of the surrounding buildings.
The main building is three stories tall, with the ground floor serving as storage spaces. The second floor is dedicated to the Changzoe Kang (Manager’s room), while the third floor houses the family’s private living quarters. The south-facing windows in the main building’s third floor are large and fitted with glass, allowing ample sunlight to illuminate the interior. A door connects the third floor to the second-floor terrace, which overlooks the front courtyard. These rooms are often referred to as the “sunlight rooms,” reflecting the abundant natural light they receive throughout the day.
Post-Revolution and the Transformation of Shatra Mansion
Following the democratic reforms, Shatra Mansion was nationalized. It became home to the Lhasa Municipal Finance Bureau and the Food Bureau, before being repurposed as dormitories for workers of the Tibet Autonomous Region People’s Political Consultative Conference and later as living spaces for descendants of the Shatra family.
In 2011, Shatra Mansion was officially recognized as a city-level cultural heritage site and underwent extensive restoration to preserve its historical and architectural integrity.
A Hub for Migrants and Traders
Up until 2010, the Shatra Mansion housed many individuals who had come to Lhasa to work or do business, with some even staying for as long as 25 years. During this period, the mansion was divided into 42 separate living units. For the children of the mansion, Shatra was more than just a home; it was a labyrinth, a castle of sorts, where they could roam freely through its numerous corridors and hidden corners. The mansion took on a dual role, both as a family residence and as a space for people from all walks of life to converge.
The Shatra Mansion: A Cultural Hub for Thangka Art and Tibetan Heritage
In 2011, the Chinese Ethnic Minority Cultural Heritage Protection Association approved the establishment of the “Thangka Capital” a title granted to the Shatra Group in Tibet. This was followed by over two years of renovation work on the ancient building, culminating in a grand unveiling ceremony in September 2014. The mansion officially began its new role as a cultural center focused on the preservation and promotion of Tibetan Thangka art.
The Shatra Mansion now serves as a dynamic space for the study and display of Thangka paintings, one of Tibet’s most revered traditional arts. It is managed by a professional team, with renowned experts in the field at the helm. The esteemed Tangka artist Tsering Lobsang, a national-level inheritor of the Kyenzi style, is the director, while Damba Raldan, a national-level inheritor of the Mentang style, and Tendar Kunchok, an internationally famous Thangka embroidery master from India, serve as deputy directors and advisors.
The Thangka Art Center: Reviving Tradition
The Shatra Mansion has become a vibrant center for Thangka art culture, with the Western wing of the courtyard housing a workshop for grinding mineral pigments used in Thangka painting. Next to it is a dedicated Thangka exhibition hall, while the Eastern side of the courtyard has been transformed into a coffee and leisure area, offering visitors a space to relax and reflect on the artwork.
The Thangka Exhibition and Workshop
The first floor of the Western wing features the Thangka pigment grinding workshop, where the meticulous process of creating mineral-based paints is demonstrated. Adjacent to the workshop is a spacious exhibition hall that showcases large-scale Thangka artworks, offering an immersive experience for visitors.
The courtyard also includes an old well, surrounded by carved stones, with a stepping stone for mounting horses, paying homage to the mansion’s historical roots as a noble residence.
On the second floor of the mansion, Thangka artists and staff have their offices. The ground floor is used for temporary exhibitions, with the Shatra Mansion hosting the annual China Thangka Arts Festival before the pandemic, drawing visitors from around the world. This festival became one of the major cultural events associated with the mansion. The second floor houses exhibition rooms dedicated to various Thangka schools, and the third floor serves as a training center for Thangka painters, continuing the tradition of transmitting the art form.
A Journey Through Tibet’s Cultural Legacy
While there are more luxurious buildings in Lhasa, the Shatra Mansion stands out for its meticulous and traditional architectural style, a prime example of Tibetan aristocratic residences. The integration of Thangka art exhibitions with the mansion’s architecture has created a unique cultural space that draws attention from both locals and tourists eager to explore Tibet’s rich heritage.
The director of the Thangka Capital painting academy, Peyang, commented: “The current operation of the Thangka Academy isn’t perfect yet. While nostalgia and sentiment for ancient buildings are important, it’s crucial to find a sustainable business model to ensure long-term success. We believe that the deep historical and cultural significance of the ancient city, along with its role as a must-visit destination for travelers to Tibet, provides a solid foundation for connecting with Tibetan culture. New ideas and fresh perspectives are needed to break away from old models and create more innovative approaches to preserving traditional culture.”
The Surrounding Area: A Historical Exploration
After visiting the Shatra Mansion, it’s fascinating to explore the history of the surrounding area. The mansion is located on Bakhor South Street, specifically Luphuk, surrounded by several historical landmarks. To the east is the Kamba merchant’s estate, Pomda Tsang, and to the west stands the residence of the Seventh Dalai Lama, Yabshi Samdup Phodrang. To the south is the residence of Trichang Rinpoche, Trichang Lharang, while to the north is Bakhor South Street.
The Lu Gu (ཀླུ་སྒུག) community, part of the old city of Lhasa, is located in the southwest corner of Bakhor Street. The name Lu Gu in Tibetan means “dragon waiting place,” which is tied to local legends. It is said that when a statue of Shakyamuni on the Drakla Lupu Rock (བྲག་ལྷ་ཀླུ་ཕུག) becomes fully three-dimensional, Lhasa will be flooded. Many “dragons” are believed to wait in the Lu Gu area, ready to guide the statue to the dragon world when the time comes.
In the past, from the fourth to the twenty-fifth day of the first month of the Tibetan lunar calendar, the Jokhang Temple would host a major religious ceremony, gathering monks from all over Tibet for prayers and debates. The area around Lu Gu became an essential part of the route to Jokhang Temple, with travelers passing through it on their way from the Potala Palace.
According to the book The History and Geographical Names of Lhasa, before the peaceful liberation of Tibet, this area was commonly known as Lupuk Vegetable Field. Locals recall that before 1959, several households grew vegetables in the area, with different fields known by names such as Amben Vegetable Field, Shasa Vegetable Field, and Tsona Vegetable Field. However, these vegetable fields are now long gone, and the area has transformed significantly.
The Shatra Mansion and the Lugu Area: A Historical Reflection on Lhasa’s Past
It is said that to the west of the Jokhang Temple, about a kilometer away, there was once a government institution known as Lugu Shingre (meaning “New Lugu”). This institution was part of the Kashag government. The building faced east, and a pair of stone lions once stood at its entrance. Today, as you enter the pedestrian street at the end of Yuthok Road, you will reach Do Senge Road (རྡོ་སེང་གེ་ལམ།), which in Tibetan means “Stone Lion Road,” named for the stone lions that once marked the entrance.
This area was also home to an official building, serving as a government office for the Tibetan authorities. It remained in use until 1911 when the last Qing-appointed Amban Lian Yu left Lhasa.
A New Beginning: Reflecting on Lhasa’s Past and Present
This concludes the latest entry in the Lhasa Urban Archaeology Notes series, which explored the Shatra Mansion and its surrounding Lu Gu area. However, as Roland Barthes once said, “The fragmented narrative exceeds the object itself.” The past is not just about recalling events; it is also about reflecting on the present and looking forward to the future.
We hope that more people will venture into the ancient city, awakening its spirit and uncovering the rich history and beautiful stories embedded in its streets. These stories are not just remnants of the past but are living legends waiting to be rediscovered and continued. Lhasa’s timeless charm beckons, inviting travelers to trace the footsteps of history and join in the ongoing narrative of this sacred city.
