Trandruk Temple: An Emblem of Legend and Power
In the heart of Tibet lies the Trandruk Temple, a symbol of the legendary battle between King Songtsen Gampo and a formidable dragon. The temple’s foundation, laid upon filled land to subdue the dragon, bears the name ‘Trandruk’ (khy-vbrug), meaning ‘the Hawk’s Cry Resembling a Dragon’s Roar’. This name echoes the thunderous roar that resonated during King Songtsen Gampo’s mythical combat with the dragon.
The Origins of Trandruk Temple
The initial structure of Trandruk Temple was a modest hall opposite the main temple, known as “Nayding Lakang.” This hall is divided into two parts: the first floor, “Nayding Shol,” and the top floor, “Nayding Tang.” Both floors, each around 75 square meters, are distinguished by their six pillars and house the statues of King Songtsen Gampo and Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), respectively.
Stages of Enlargement and Renovation
Trandruk Temple’s journey from a small shrine to a grand monument involved several phases of expansion:
- Early Enhancements: After 1351, led by Naidong Gomang Situ Bodhisattva, the temple was significantly enlarged, adding many Buddha halls that shaped its present form.
- The Fifth Dalai Lama’s Influence: The temple underwent major renovations and expansions during the era of the Fifth Dalai Lama. This period saw the addition of a gilded roof on the main hall, the gateway in front of the Coqen Hall, and the construction of Sangapozhang.
- Enhancements by the Seventh Dalai Lama: The temple further expanded to an impressive 4665.6 square meters, including 21 Lakangs (chapels) and a prayer wheel corridor, all crowned with sparkling golden roofs. Subsequent Dalai Lamas have maintained the tradition of visiting Trandruk Temple regularly.
Architectural Splendor and Spiritual Essence
As one of the “Three Holy Temples,” Trandruk Temple is deeply revered. Its distinct layout features a front courtyard and a larger rear courtyard centered around the Coqen Hall. The entrance leads to the smaller courtyard, adorned with a Tibetan bell inscribed in Tibetan script – a relic from the 8th century symbolizing the cultural and religious exchange between the Tibetan and Han people.
The Courtyard and Secret Passages
The courtyard spans approximately 378 square meters, encircled by a gallery with monastic cells above. The Sangapozhang, built in the late 17th century, originally served as accommodation for Nyingma monks visiting the Dalai Lama. It was later converted into a Tantric Lakang (chapel) in 1938. Beneath lies a hidden tunnel with two storage rooms.
The Grand Courtyard: A Fusion of Devotion and Architecture
The main courtyard, the focal point of Trandruk Temple, is marked by a tall porch connected to an exterior prayer wheel corridor. Statues of protector deities and the Four Heavenly Kings guard the entrance. The courtyard leads to the Coqen Hall, surrounded by an inner prayer wheel corridor, the “Middle Corridor.”
Trandruk Temple: A Testament to Tibetan Heritage
Trandruk Temple, with its storied past and distinctive architectural marvels, stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of Tibetan culture and spirituality. Its evolution over centuries mirrors the dynamic relationship between religious practice and artistic expression, making it a captivating destination for those exploring Tibet’s cultural and spiritual depths.
The Inner Sanctum: A Journey through the Middle Corridor
Trandruk Temple’s Middle Corridor, encircling the temple, houses 12 chapels (Lakangs), forming an orderly “assembly line” for worshippers to pay homage to various Buddhas. Each Lakang, supported by either single-column or “T”-shaped pillars, showcases varying architectural styles from different periods, with earlier pillars featuring lotus-carved bases.
Artistic Grandeur: Wall Paintings and Architectural Marvels
The temple’s south, north, and west walls are adorned with exquisite murals. The southern and northern walls depict stories of Buddha, while the western wall features paintings of the Fifth Dalai Lama, Güshi Khan, and Depa Sanggye Gyatso, likely from the late Qing Dynasty, reflecting a meticulous artistic style. The Coqen Hall, an addition from a later period, stands out with its unique architectural design, significantly different from early constructions.
The Twelve Chapels: A Spiritual Ensemble
Surrounding the Middle Corridor are twelve Lakangs, each with its unique significance, with the Zula Lakang holding a prominent position:
- Zula Lakang: Centrally located, this three-room chapel houses a trio of bronze-cast Buddhas, flanked by statues of the Ten Great Bodhisattvas and a talking Tara brought by King Songtsen Gampo from India. A corridor connects Zula Lakang with the Coqen Hall, featuring a low-pillared hall with peculiar wood-carved protector deities and several small stupas.
- Qujie Lakang: Dedicated to King Songtsen Gampo, with statues of Princess Wencheng on the right and Princess Chizun on the left. Lifelike statues of Ludongzan and Tumi Sambhota adorn the walls, accompanied by vibrant depictions of various deities, showcasing the elegance of the Tang Dynasty style.
- Tuochie Lakang: This chapel features a grand Thousand-Handed Avalokitesvara statue, flanked by attendant figures. Its walls are richly decorated with paintings, including Zedan Lasibu Buddha, who reportedly aided King Songtsen Gampo. A corner of the chapel houses an ancient stove, believed to have been used by Princess Wencheng.
- Dajin Lakang: The main deity here is Sakyamuni Buddha, topped with a peacock feather canopy, and flanked by Horse-Headed Manjushri and protector deities.
- Ruodan Lakang: Dominated by an eleven-faced Avalokitesvara statue, surrounded by master figures and walls adorned with various stupa paintings.
- Ciba Lakang: Home to a Longevity Buddha statue, accompanied by three Bodhisattvas and two protector deities.
- Dexie Lakang: Features a Medicine Buddha, with nine Buddha statues on the central and side walls, each intricately crafted.
The Essence of Trandruk Temple
Trandruk Temple, through its chapels, murals, and architectural magnificence, offers a profound insight into Tibetan spirituality and artistry. Each element within its walls tells a story of devotion, history, and cultural exchange, making it an indispensable destination for those seeking to understand the rich tapestry of Tibetan heritage.
The Heart of Devotion: Xizhu Festival Lakang
Located in the northern section of the main courtyard of Trandruk Temple is the Xizhu Festival Lakang, comprising two sections and three rooms. At its center stands a magnificent statue of the Eleven-Faced Great Compassion Avalokitesvara, flanked by Bodhisattva figures on the left and Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) on the right. The walls of this chapel are adorned with paintings of Tsongkhapa, Jia Caojie, and Kezhu Jie, revered masters of the Gelug school.
Opposite Attraction: Oujin Lakang
Facing the Xizhu Festival Lakang is the Oujin Lakang, established by the first Rezhen Living Buddha. This chapel is divided into a front and rear room. The front room, stretching three sections wide and deep, houses a statue of Amitayus Buddha on the right wall, accompanied by a protector deity. The rear room, also three sections deep, features a life-sized statue of Guru Rinpoche in its shrine, with numerous varied depictions of Padmasambhava, and protector deities on each side of the front wall.
Flanking the Main Entrance: Two Renovated Lakangs
On either side of the main entrance to the courtyard stand two chapels, both renovated during the era of the Fifth Dalai Lama. To the right is the Abala Lakang, with a room housing a life-sized statue of the Fifth Dalai Lama, flanked by figures of Tsongkhapa and other Gelug patriarchs, as well as King Atisha and successive Dalai Lamas. On the left is the Tongzhui Lakang, dedicated to Tsongkhapa, surrounded by master figures and images of successive Dalai Lamas.
Gongkang: The Protector Deity Hall
North of the Abala Lakang is the Gongkang (Protector Deity Hall). Dominating the rear center of this hall is a towering, black-colored protector deity with clawed hands and feet, embodying a fierce and powerful presence. The hall features multi-tiered stands displaying a variety of protector deity figures, crafted with intricate detail and an ancient, somewhat eccentric style.
Stupas and Lotus Born Hall
At the ends of the north and south corridors stand two Indian-style stone stupas, believed to have been built during King Songtsen Gampo’s reign. In the southeast corner of the temple lies the Lotus Born Hall, facing west. This hall, comprising three sections, is a vibrant and popular area of the temple, frequently visited by devotees.
Second Floor: A Platform of Sanctity
Surrounding the courtyard’s second level are spacious platforms and walkways, bordered by several Buddha halls. In the southern part of this level are two Lakangs, with a Protector Deity Hall to the west. This hall features a shrine with a protector deity image and a corridor behind it dedicated to Tsampa figures. A scripture cabinet in front of the right wall once housed over 200 volumes of Buddhist scriptures, signifying the temple’s rich religious heritage.
Through its array of chapels, each with unique deities and artistic representations, Trandruk Temple offers a profound glimpse into the depth and diversity of Tibetan Buddhism, its art, and its enduring spiritual legacy.
The Protector Deities: A Glimpse into Tibetan Mysticism
In the front section of the temple’s sanctuary, covering an area supported by two pillars, the walls are adorned with murals of various protector deities. Among these, the striking depiction of Mahakala draped in a white elephant skin stands out. With elephant feet resting on his shoulders and legs, and hands wielding symbolic objects like a trident and a skull drum, this fierce figure, encircled by a necklace of serpents and a skirt of tiger skin, is surrounded by 50 human heads, embodying a fearsome and awe-inspiring presence.
Kagyur Lakang: The Realm of Tantric Deities
Adjacent to the east is the Kagyur Lakang, a chapel dedicated to Tantric Buddhism. Inside, the walls and altars are lined with statues of protector deities. The central altar in the back houses a large figure of Kalachakra, flanked by dual-bodied and four-bodied protector deities. The unique four-bodied deity, crafted within a kapala (skull cup), is a rare sight in the creation of protector figures.
Zutul Lakang: A Sanctuary of Masters
The eastern section of the temple’s second floor is home to Zutul Lakang, divided into inner and outer rooms. The walls and niches of both rooms enshrine 80 master figures, often interpreted as 80 practitioners. The outer room predominantly features a clay statue of Guru Rinpoche, while the inner room houses a statue of Tsongkhapa. Both statues, painted in vibrant colors, exhibit a glass-like sheen. Adjacent to Zutul Lakang is the Gajia Lakang, facing north and housing 100 clay statues of the Nyingma school’s main deities.
The Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace and Jueyuekang
The western part of the second floor serves as the Dalai Lama’s summer residence. North of this area lies Jueyuekang, a space designed for aristocratic rest, originally housing numerous ritual instruments, including a prized copper cymbal from the Ming Dynasty’s Xuande period.
The Pearl Thangka: A Treasured Artifact
A highlight of Trandruk Temple is the Pearl Thangka, an exquisite depiction of Avalokitesvara at rest, intricately woven from pearls. Measuring 2 meters by 1.2 meters, this masterpiece incorporates 29,026 pearls, along with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, amethysts, turquoise, coral, and gold. Crafted during the transition from the Yuan to the Ming Dynasty, it was commissioned by the Queen of Nedong and then offered to Zetoba Temple.
Legends of Princess Wencheng and Gesang Zhuoma
Local legends narrate the story of Princess Wencheng and Gesang Zhuoma. It is said that during a spring visit to the Yalong River, Princess Wencheng accidentally fell into the river and was saved by Gesang Zhuoma, a village girl. This encounter led to a lifelong friendship, with Princess Wencheng teaching Gesang Zhuoma various skills and receiving help in return. The Tibetans attribute many beautiful aspects of their culture to Princess Wencheng, including the planting of willow trees around Trandruk Temple and the introduction of various crafts and skills.
Visiting Tips
- Ticket Purchase and Travel Information: Tickets are required for entry, with visiting hours from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM, and the tour takes about an hour. Visitors can reach the temple via public transportation from Zedang Town or by private car. It’s also a great stop on the way back from visiting Yongbulakang.
- Main Buddha Statues and the Pearl Thangka: Trandruk Temple’s primary Buddha statues were brought from Gongburi Mountain and are among Tibet’s earliest stone carvings. The room housing the Pearl Thangka, located on the second floor, is occasionally closed to the public but can be accessed by seeking assistance from a key-holding lama. Visitors can also view a thangka embroidered by Princess Wencheng.
- Yalong Folklore Park: Centered around Trandruk Temple, the park spans 21 hectares and features a blend of static and dynamic areas, showcasing Nedong’s root-seeking culture. This leisure park integrates sightseeing, entertainment, and tourism services, highlighting the local culture and traditions.
