Zengsang Gongba Monastery and Xialakang in Gyirong Cai Monastery

Zengsang Gongba Monastery: A Cave Monastery in Tibet

Located about 5 kilometers west of Gurui Village in Dui Na Township, Yadong County, the Zengsang Gongba Monastery stands at an elevation of 4800 meters on Zengsang Gongba Mountain. This unique cave monastery, believed to have been established by Padmasambhava (padma-vbyung-gnas), originally belonged to the Nyingma school but was converted into a nunnery (jo-mo-dgon) in the 18th century, later adopting the Kagyu tradition.

The monastery features 12 caves, each fronted by stone walls, with stone or wooden staircases connecting them. The largest cave spans 30 square meters, while the smallest is only 5 square meters. Cave number four, the largest, serves as the main assembly and scripture recitation area for nuns, housing a clay statue of Padmasambhava. Its walls are adorned with murals of White Tara, Red Tara, Green Tara, and the Eighteen Arhats.

Cave number three is dedicated to the Protector Deity, measuring about 20 square meters, and houses statues like Samvara and Hayagriva, surrounded by Vajrayana murals. Caves number one and two are used by the resident lamas, while caves number seven and twelve serve as nuns’ quarters. A square stupa, about 40 meters below the caves, covers an area of approximately 40 square meters.

Xialakang in Gyirong Cai Monastery

Situated atop Bumen Mountain in Gyirong Cai Village, Upper Yadong Township, the original Gyirong Cai Monastery was founded by a high monk from Rezeng Monastery, Juxiang Ruiba Gabu, in the 13th century. This large complex included a front gate, central courtyard, scripture hall, and Buddha hall, covering an area of 6000 square meters. It was destroyed by a fire in the nearby village in the early 16th century.

Later, with the support of Gaga Guisa Gongwa and Zhuoxue Xia Eba, a new scripture hall named “Xialakang” was built on the old site, covering 180 square meters. Designed for lamas’ scripture recitation and meditation, it faces west to east, with a rectangular courtyard leading to the temple. The temple’s entrance faces south, spanning two bays in width and depth, housing Buddha statues, and is renowned for its exquisite murals.

Highlight: The Murals of Xialakang

The main wall of the temple features a mural of Padmasambhava and his two consorts, while the other three walls depict Vajrayana protector deities and heavenly kings, including Vaishravana, Virupaksha, Mahakala, Samvara, and Auspicious Heavenly Mother. The doorways are flanked by female deity murals.

These vibrant murals, with a dominant red hue, utilize line drawing and flat coloring techniques, with some areas enhanced by gradation for depth and texture. Padmasambhava is depicted majestically, with a crown and fierce expression, holding a staff and making a hand gesture, flanked by his smaller, more subdued consorts. This contrast emphasizes his powerful presence. The heavenly kings and deities are surrounded by dynamic, horizontal cloud patterns, adding to their dignified and wrathful aura.

The female deities are portrayed with high hair buns, five-flower crowns, curved eyebrows, and slender eyes. The left deity is depicted with a snake crown, hands in prayer, and a fishtail lower body, while the right deity sits on a cow, holding a staff and a treasure-filled bowl, embodying tranquility and beauty. The surrounding mushroom-shaped clouds further enhance the peaceful and serene atmosphere of the deities. Despite being relatively recent, these murals are valuable for studying Tibetan mural styles and schools.