Ramoche Temple, also known as the Smaller Jokhang Temple, is a lesser-known yet historically significant Gelugpa temple located in the northern part of Lhasa, Tibet. Once a thriving center for esoteric Buddhist transmission in Upper Tibet, Ramoche holds deep cultural and spiritual ties to the ancient Tibetan Empire and the Tang Dynasty of China.
A Morning Walk Through Lhasa to Ramoche Temple
In the early morning, Lhasa awakens like a dream, with the majestic Potala Palace rising in the golden sunlight like a crystalline fortress. The city feels poetic and timeless, with soft breezes rustling the willow trees and tall poplars lining the streets. Newly built Tibetan-style homes, influenced by both traditional Tibetan art and Han Chinese architecture, add to the charm. Their colorful façades and lively voices from within create a vibrant neighborhood atmosphere.
With joy and curiosity, I walk toward the Ramoche Temple, locally called “Jathang Ramoche”, tucked away in the northern district of Lhasa.
Origins: A Sacred Gift from the Tang Dynasty
According to Tibetan historical records, Ramoche Temple was originally founded in the 640s AD, during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo, the powerful ruler who unified Tibet. In 641 AD, the Tang Dynasty princess Wencheng married the Tibetan king and traveled from Chang’an (modern-day Xi’an) to Lhasa.
As part of her royal dowry, Emperor Taizong of Tang gifted her a sacred statue of the 12-year-old Shakyamuni Buddha, along with valuable treasures. A grand palanquin was built to carry the statue, escorted by two strong men, Jiala and Luga.
Legend says that as the royal entourage entered Lhasa, the carriage carrying the statue became stuck in the sand. Despite multiple attempts, it couldn’t be moved. Princess Wencheng ordered a makeshift altar built using four wooden pillars and white silk curtains to enshrine the statue temporarily. This spot later became the foundation of Ramoche Temple.
Architecture: A Blend of Chinese and Tibetan Styles
The temple was constructed facing east, symbolizing Princess Wencheng’s longing for her homeland. Skilled artisans from inland China and local Tibetan craftsmen worked together to build this three-story temple, merging Han-style architecture with Tibetan elements.
Although the original temple was damaged by fire and rebuilt multiple times, the current structure covers an area of 3,940 square meters. Inside, the main assembly hall can hold up to 500 monks chanting scriptures. The inner sanctum, once home to the Jowa Shakyamuni statue brought by Princess Wencheng, now enshrines a statue of Mikyo Dorje (Achala Vajra)—another manifestation of the Buddha.
Sacred Statue Exchange Between Ramoche and Jokhang
Ramoche Temple is closely linked to Jokhang Temple, Lhasa’s most sacred site. The exchange of Buddha statues between these temples reflects deep political and religious ties.
- Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal, another wife of King Songtsen Gampo, brought a statue of Mikyo Dorje, the 8-year-old form of Shakyamuni.
- Princess Wencheng brought the Jowa Buddha, the 12-year-old form.
Initially:
- Ramoche Temple enshrined the Jowa Shakyamuni statue.
- Jokhang Temple housed Mikyo Dorje.
However, in 652 AD, during the reign of King Mangsong Mangtsen, rumors spread of a Tang invasion. Fearing the loss of the statue, the Tibetan court secretly moved the Jowa statue from Ramoche to Jokhang, concealing it behind a painted wall.
It wasn’t until 712 AD, when Princess Jincheng entered Tibet through another political marriage, that the statue was revealed again and officially placed in the main sanctum of Jokhang Temple. In exchange, Mikyo Dorje was moved to Ramoche Temple, where it remains to this day.
Key Features of Ramoche Temple Today
- Protector Shrine: Located in front of the main hall.
- 30-Meter-High Stupa: A recently constructed landmark behind the main temple.
- 300 Bronze Prayer Wheels: Pilgrims walk three clockwise circuits, spinning the “Gulung” wheels for blessings.
- Golden Roof: The shining bronze rooftop with traditional upturned eaves is a major highlight. Originally destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, it was beautifully restored in 1987.
- Second & Third Floors: These areas serve as monks’ living quarters and include sacred chapels.
A Must-Visit Spiritual Destination in Lhasa
Though not as famous as the Jokhang Temple, Ramoche Temple is a deeply sacred and historically rich site in Tibetan Buddhism. It offers a quieter yet profound glimpse into Tibet’s spiritual legacy, especially for travelers interested in Buddhist history, sacred art, and Tibetan-Chinese relations.
If you’re planning a trip to Lhasa, don’t miss this lesser-known jewel of the Gelug school, where ancient legends, royal marriages, and Buddhist devotion converge in one powerful location.
Inside Ramoche Temple: Sculpted Columns, Sacred Statues & Timeless Architecture
As I followed the resident abbot into the temple, I was immediately struck by the magnificence of the entrance gatehouse. Ten massive columns stood proudly—each about 80 centimeters in diameter, carved into sixteen-sided forms and wrapped with three copper bands engraved with delicate lotus petal patterns. Their upper sections featured floral carvings, and the column heads sparkled with embossed motifs of precious jewels, Tibetan meander (“hui”) patterns, and the sacred Six-Syllable Mantra: Om Mani Padme Hum. High above, on the front four rows of arches, dragons danced across the beams—cloud-shrouded sea dragons sculpted in exquisite relief.
Buddhist Cosmology on the Temple Walls
Just behind the cloistered corridor, the rear walls revealed vivid murals depicting the Four Great Heavenly Kings and the Wheel of Life—a powerful image of Buddhist karmic cosmology. The abbot explained its profound meaning: all sentient beings are caught in samsara, the endless cycle of birth, death, and rebirth, until they attain enlightenment. The six realms—Hell, Hungry Ghosts, Animals, Asuras, Humans, and Devas—symbolize the emotional states and karmic consequences that define existence.
Above the gatehouse, the second and third floors served as monastic living quarters and small chapels for private meditation and study.
Circumambulation Corridor & Sacred Murals
Walking into the circumambulation corridor, I noticed where the walls had once been lined with wooden prayer wheels, especially along the southern, western, and northern sections. Although many wheels are gone, remnants of sacred murals remain—featuring deities like Amitayus (Buddha of Infinite Life) and White Tara, revered for longevity and compassion.
The Main Hall: A Fusion of Power, Art, and Devotion
The main sanctum rose across three stories, beginning with the ground floor, where the assembly hall, side chapels, and main shrine room are located. A particularly striking figure stood near the entrance—a wrathful protector deity, Gombo Sedongma, sculpted from a branch of a pomegranate tree. In Tibetan Buddhism, wrathful deities often represent compassion in fierce form, destroying ignorance to protect practitioners.
The central hall spanned four columns in width, supported by guardian sculptures symbolically bearing the temple’s weight. Archways above were filled with carvings of lions, clouds, and treasure vases. The main door relief depicted Two Dragons Playing with a Pearl, flanked by crossbeams engraved with the Six-Syllable Mantra in a flowing, ancient Tibetan script.
The assembly hall extended seven bays deep and three bays wide, supported by 30 elaborately carved columns. Four main pillars soared 6.2 meters high, anchoring a central skylight, while the other 26 stood at 2.8 meters. Their carvings—lotus petals, curling clouds, sacred jewels—spoke to the temple’s deep artistic heritage.
Facing the courtyard, a row of sandalwood columns was once adorned with 28 reclining lions—27 of which still remain. Their bases, with four-petal and eight-petal lotus motifs, signified purity and awakening.
Images of Enlightenment: Statues, Stupas & Saints
Along the southern side of the west entrance, the temple preserves stupas of Sariputra and Maudgalyayana, the Buddha’s two chief disciples. Nearby stands a 40-cm bronze-gilt statue of Yamantaka, a fierce protector linked to Je Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelug school.
Clay statues of Jetsun, Gongkha Dondrup, and other revered tantric masters are also enshrined. The northern side features wrathful deities like Vajrapani, Shakyamuni, Dzambhala, and the Four Heavenly Kings—each over one meter tall, with intense expressions and commanding poses.
The Main Shrine: Legacy of Princess Bhrikuti
The central main shrine, covering 24 square meters, is supported by two lotus-throne pillars. Its architecture is minimalist, reflecting early Tibetan temple design. The shrine contains a bronze-gilt statue of Achala Vajra (Mikyo Dorje), brought by Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal. Also present are clay statues of the Eight Great Disciples, two wrathful guardians, and an image of Je Tsongkhapa, highlighting the temple’s Gelugpa legacy.
The Upper Floors: Monastic Life and Sacred Relics
The second floor houses monks’ living quarters, a small chapel, and a shrine room. Inside are sacred representations of King Sangye Luwang Gyab, the Sixteen Arhats, Eight Medicine Buddhas, and Green Tara, who protects beings from the Eight Great Perils. Shelves lined with the complete Kangyur (translated Buddhist scriptures) add to the temple’s scholarly aura.
The third floor is especially significant—it includes six rooms used historically by the Dalai Lama, and the revered Golden Roof Hall, measuring 55 square meters. The rooftop, crafted in Han Chinese architectural style using hip-and-gable structures with intricate dougong brackets, is capped by a Makara (mythical sea creature) head at the golden ridge’s end. Inside, Tibetan murals and carved pillars create a stunning fusion of Tibetan and Chinese aesthetics.
Gyüpa Dratsang: Ramoche as the Upper Tantric College of the Gelug School
Beyond its architecture, Ramoche Temple is renowned as the Upper Tantric College, or Gyüpa Dratsang in Tibetan. It is one of the highest tantric academies of the Gelug tradition, founded in 1464 CE by Jetsun Gonga Dondrup, a direct disciple of Jetsun Sherab Sengé, the tantric heir of Je Tsongkhapa.
Gonga Dondrup’s spiritual journey began in Sewar Long Cave in the Chömda region of Medrogongkar County. As he practiced along the upper Lhasa River, the institution he founded became known as the Upper Tantric College—in contrast to the Lower Tantric College downstream.
Life and Legacy of Jetsun Gonga Dondrup
Born in 1419 CE—the same year Tsongkhapa passed away—Gonga Dondrup hailed from Naining, western Tibet. He took novice vows at Nartang Monastery, studying Buddhist logic and later receiving tantric training from Sherab Sengé and Khenchen Peljor near Genpe Ritso, Lhasa.
After disagreements with the Lower Tantric College abbot in 1464, he departed with six disciples, sacred texts, and ritual tools. They practiced intensively in Sewar Long Cave, then moved to Champaling Monastery in Chamdo, where Gonga Dondrup attained deep realization. There, he authored major works including The Biography of Tsongkhapa and The Biography of Jetsun Sherab Sengé.
He passed away in 1468 CE at age 68. His heart, tongue, and skull were preserved as relics. The heart and tongue were enshrined in a golden statue at Ramoche Temple, while the skull was taken to Razi Gönsa Monastery in the Drigung region.
After his death, tantric teachings at Ramoche paused for two years. By 1470, the college resumed its role as a premier center for tantric practice, ensuring that Gonga Dondrup’s legacy would continue to shape Gelugpa Vajrayana training for generations.
Historical Milestones: Divine Intervention, Royal Decrees, and the Rise of the Upper Tantric College
In 1484 CE (Wood Snake Year of the 8th Rabjung), a powerful flood surged through the upper reaches of the Kyichu River (Lhasa River), endangering both the livelihoods and homes of Lhasa’s residents. Amid growing panic, the revered tantric master Jetsun Gonga Dondrup was summoned to the riverbanks to perform esoteric Vajrayana rituals aimed at pacifying the elements.
Through his mastery of tantric methods, Gonga Dondrup is said to have calmed the raging waters—averting disaster. In recognition of this miraculous act, Wensa Dalongpa, a senior official of the Pakdru regime, formally conferred the Ramoche Temple upon him. The temple was thus officially established as a center for advanced tantric teachings in Upper Tibet.
Royal Patronage and Institutional Transformation
Over two centuries later, in 1711 CE (Iron Rabbit Year of the 12th Rabjung), the political landscape shifted again. Lhazang Khan, the Tibetan King of the time, recognized Ramoche Temple’s Upper Tantric College (Gyüpa Dratsang) as the preeminent Gelugpa tantric institution—the orthodox seat of Je Tsongkhapa’s esoteric lineage.
Building upon the earlier land grant from the Dalongpa authority, Lhazang Khan issued a royal edict, permanently granting:
- The Ramoche Temple complex
- The Shakyamuni statue
- The monastic residences
- And associated chapels
to the Upper Tantric College, solidifying its legal and spiritual status for generations to come.
Formal Monastic Governance: Structure of the Upper Tantric College
According to the current abbot, the formal designation as the Upper Tantric College ushered in a new era of organization and discipline. The original 25 Khangtsens (regional monk houses) were streamlined into five main divisions. At its peak, the monastery supported a monastic population of over 500 monks and was administered under a well-defined hierarchical system:
Key Leadership Roles:
- Khenpo (Abbot) – Supreme authority in charge of all religious instruction and administrative affairs.
- Lama Umdze – Master of ceremonies who leads tantric liturgies, initiations, and daily rituals.
- Gegyü – Head disciplinarian, responsible for upholding monastic vows, ethical conduct, and internal regulations.
- Six Changzo (Administrative Stewards) – Handled day-to-day operations, including the management of 36 dependent estates and seven affiliated branch monasteries.
Crucially, only monks who had earned the prestigious Lharampa Geshe degree—the highest level of monastic scholarship—at one of Lhasa’s Three Great Monasteries (Drepung, Ganden, or Sera) were eligible for the top three leadership roles. Appointments required the approval of the Dalai Lama or the Regent, ensuring the spiritual integrity of the institution.
Modern History: Cultural Turbulence, Restoration & Resurgence
During the Democratic Reforms in Tibet, Ramoche Temple was designated a Key Cultural Heritage Site by the Tibet Autonomous Region, securing its historical and spiritual importance. Despite this, the temple suffered extensive damage during the Cultural Revolution, like many religious institutions across Tibet.
However, in the wake of the Third Plenary Session of the 11th Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party, major efforts were made to restore cultural landmarks. In August 1978, the temple’s crowning jewel—the Golden Roof Hall on the fourth floor—was fully reconstructed and covered in gilded bronze sheeting, restoring its former splendor.
By 1981, over 100 monks voluntarily returned to Ramoche, reviving daily practice and ritual life despite the temple’s reduced capacity.
Ramoche Temple Today: A Living Tantric Legacy
In the present day, more than 60 monks reside at Ramoche Temple, dedicating their lives to the study, preservation, and practice of tantric teachings in accordance with the Gelug tradition of Vajrayana Buddhism. The Upper Tantric College (Gyüpa Dratsang) remains one of the foremost centers for tantric education in Tibet, upholding a legacy that spans over five centuries.
Ramoche stands not only as a monument to architectural and artistic brilliance, but also as a living institution, where scriptural wisdom, ritual power, and historic continuity come together in service of spiritual awakening.
Though often overshadowed by the Jokhang Temple, Ramoche—the Upper Jokhang—offers a rare window into Tibet’s spiritual, architectural, and scholarly history. As a living temple, a seat of tantric education, and a fusion of cultures, Ramoche Temple embodies the sacred continuity of Tibetan Buddhism in the heart of Lhasa.
Whether you’re a pilgrim, scholar, or traveler in Tibet, a visit to Ramoche Temple and the Upper Tantric College provides a deeper appreciation of the profound spiritual traditions still alive on the Roof of the World.