Introduction to Nyetang Temple
Tucked into the tranquil countryside of Qushui County, northeast of the county seat and just southwest along the China–Nepal Highway, Nyetang Temple is one of central Tibet’s most spiritually significant yet lesser-known sacred sites. Also called Nyetang Dolma Lhakang, meaning “Nyetang Tara Hall,” this temple is closely linked to the life and teachings of the great Indian Buddhist master Atisha, making it an essential stop for those interested in the roots of Tibetan Buddhism.
Surrounded by open valleys and quiet mountain scenery, Nyetang Temple offers a peaceful setting where history, devotion, and timeless wisdom come together.
A Historic Center of Atisha’s Teachings
Nyetang Temple was founded in 1045, during the Northern Song Dynasty, marking a pivotal moment in Tibetan Buddhist history. It was here that Atisha Dipankara Shrijnana, one of the most influential Indian Buddhist scholars, spent his final years teaching the Dharma.
Accompanied by his foremost Tibetan disciple Dromtön Gyelwe Jungne (1005–1064), Atisha taught at Nyetang for nine years, laying the foundations for what later became the Kadampa tradition, which deeply influenced later schools of Tibetan Buddhism.
Atisha passed away peacefully in 1054 at Nyetang. One year later, Dromtön organized a memorial ceremony at the site where his master had lived and taught, forever establishing Nyetang as a sacred place of remembrance and practice.
The Birth of Nyetang Dolma Lhakang
To honor Atisha’s legacy, Dromtön and his followers built a reliquary stupa to enshrine Atisha’s ashes. Beside it, they constructed a special hall to house a revered statue of Tara, the Buddhist goddess of compassion, swift action, and protection.
This hall became known as Dolma Lhakang, or Tara Hall, and from that time onward, Nyetang Dolma Lhakang emerged as an important pilgrimage destination. According to tradition, the Tara statue enshrined here appeared in visions to Atisha, urging him to spread Buddhism in Tibet for the benefit of all beings.
Survival and Restoration Through the Centuries
The Tara Hall seen today was rebuilt in the 1930s under the guidance of a respected Hotogtu. The reconstruction carefully followed the original architectural style, preserving both the spiritual atmosphere and historical integrity of the site.
Despite centuries of change, the Tara statue remains the central focus of devotion, drawing pilgrims who seek blessings, guidance, and inspiration from Atisha’s spiritual legacy.
Layout and Architectural Highlights of Nyetang Temple
Nyetang Temple faces east, welcoming the morning sun and symbolizing spiritual awakening. Visitors enter through a stone-paved courtyard, with the living quarters of temple caretakers located on either side.
A wide veranda leads to the main halls, creating a smooth transition from the outer world to the inner sacred space. At the northern end of the veranda, two distinctive underground white stupas are partially visible above ground. These rare structures enshrine precious relics of Atisha and Dromtön, including personal items such as clothing, shoes, and saddles, making them especially revered.
A circumambulation path runs alongside the main hall, allowing pilgrims to practice kora, a meditative walking ritual deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhist tradition.
The Three Main Halls of Nyetang Temple
Nyetang Temple is centered around three principal halls, each dedicated to different aspects of Buddhist devotion, philosophy, and ritual practice.
Nyetang Dolma Lhakang: The Central Tara Hall
The spiritual heart of the temple is Nyetang Dolma Lhakang, dedicated to the Twenty-One Taras. In Tibetan Buddhism, Tara (Dolma) is one of the most beloved female deities, known for her swift compassion and protective power.
This hall also contains a shrine to Sakyamuni Buddha, accompanied by statues of his ten principal disciples. Each disciple represents a unique spiritual quality, such as wisdom, discipline, supernatural ability, or eloquence. The detailed sculptures and serene atmosphere bring classical Buddhist teachings vividly to life.
Langje Lhakang: The Hall of the Victory Stupa
Located to the south, Langje Lhakang is dominated by the impressive Langje Chuten, a 10-meter-high Victory Stupa. This structure commemorates Sakyamuni Buddha’s victory over Mara, symbolizing the triumph of enlightenment over ignorance and inner obstacles.
The hall also contains sacred stupas dedicated to Naropa (1016–1100) and Dromtön Gyelwe Jungne, linking Indian and Tibetan Buddhist lineages and highlighting Nyetang’s role in the transmission of Buddhist wisdom.
Gubang Lhakang: The Hall of Longevity
The Gubang Lhakang, believed to be the oldest hall in Nyetang Temple, is devoted to the Three Longevity Buddhas:
- Amitayus
- White Tara
- Ushnishavijaya
These deities embody long life, vitality, and the removal of obstacles. The hall features finely crafted statues, celestial figures, and symbolic decorations that make it a standout example of Tibetan religious art. Historical records suggest that this hall was originally built by Atisha himself and later expanded by Dromtön.
Sacred Relics and Living Presence
Within the Gubang Lhakang stands a special relic stupa of Atisha, constructed by Gawa Shakya Wonchuk. Beneath it is a statue believed to closely resemble Atisha in appearance. Tradition holds that Atisha himself crafted and consecrated this image, and marks on the statue are said to reflect the imprint of his own hands.
The hall also contains a large stupa enshrining the relics of Lama Dromtön Sönam Drakpa, further deepening the spiritual resonance of the space and strengthening the personal connection between teacher, disciple, and practitioner.
Nyetang Temple as a Living Spiritual Heritage
From its association with Atisha and the early development of Tibetan Buddhism to its carefully preserved halls, relics, and ritual spaces, Nyetang Temple remains a vital spiritual landmark in central Tibet. Pilgrims and visitors alike encounter here not only ancient architecture and sacred art, but also a living tradition that continues to inspire devotion, study, and reflection.
Atisha’s Artistic Legacy at Nyetang Temple
Atisha is revered not only as a great Buddhist master, but also as a multi-talented scholar and artist whose legacy extends beyond philosophy and religious reform. Among his most extraordinary artistic contributions are two rare thangkas painted using his own nasal blood, a practice reflecting deep tantric devotion and spiritual discipline.
One of these priceless thangkas is preserved at Nyetang Temple, while the other is enshrined at Reting Monastery. These works are considered exceptionally sacred, valued both for their spiritual power and their unique method of creation, making them among the most precious Buddhist artworks in Tibet.
Sacred Relics Preserved in Gubang Lhakang
The Gubang Lhakang houses some of the most intimate and valuable relics connected directly to Atisha’s life. Most notable is a life-size statue personally created by Atisha, standing approximately 68 centimeters tall. This statue holds immense significance due to its direct physical connection to the master and is regarded as one of the temple’s greatest treasures.
In addition, several of Atisha’s personal ritual items are preserved here, including his conch shell and alms bowl. These everyday objects offer a rare, tangible link to Atisha’s daily monastic life and spiritual practice, deepening the sense of presence and authenticity within the hall.
The Tseme Chuten: Atisha’s Sandalwood Stupa
Within the Nyetang Dolma Lhakang, visitors can find another masterpiece attributed to Atisha: a finely crafted wooden sandalwood stupa known as “Tseme Chuten.”
This stupa, intricately designed and closely associated with Atisha throughout his lifetime, is revered for both its exceptional craftsmanship and its spiritual sanctity. As a personal creation of the master, it embodies Atisha’s devotion, artistic skill, and deep understanding of Buddhist symbolism.
The Twenty-One Taras: Guardians of Compassion
At the spiritual core of Nyetang Temple stand the statues of the Twenty-One Taras, among the most beloved figures in Tibetan Buddhism. Originating from Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, the Twenty-One Taras are venerated for their role in protecting sentient beings from eight major calamities, including dangers from:
- Lions
- Elephants
- Fire
- Snakes
- Robbers
- Imprisonment
- Water
- Poison
Each Tara embodies a distinct aspect of compassion, protection, wisdom, and swift action in times of danger.
Green Tara and the Root Mantra
Among the Twenty-One Taras, Green Tara holds a central and preeminent position. Her mantra is regarded as the root mantra of all the Taras, symbolizing her leadership and foundational role within this sacred group.
While some Taras focus on averting natural disasters or human-made suffering, others grant longevity, wisdom, prosperity, or protection against negative forces. Together, they represent a complete system of compassionate intervention in the Buddhist worldview.
Iconography of the Twenty-One Taras
The visual representation of the Taras is rich in symbolism and elegance. Most are depicted with gentle and compassionate expressions, though a few appear in wrathful forms to subdue obstacles and harmful forces.
Typical features include slender bodies, high breasts, full hips, and graceful postures. Their hair is often styled in a high bun, with locks flowing over their shoulders. Faces are serene and slightly inclined to the left, adorned with precious crowns and large earrings.
They may appear partially clothed or wearing tight half-sleeved garments, with exposed chests and abdomens, decorated with armlets and bracelets. Seated in lotus posture on lotus pedestals, the Taras radiate dignity, beauty, and compassionate power.
Atisha: Life, Titles, and Spiritual Journey
Atisha (982–1054) stands as a pivotal figure in the history of Tibetan Buddhism and the Kadampa tradition. Born as Chandragarbha, meaning “Moon Essence,” he later received the spiritual name Dipamkarara Srijnana, translated as “Glorious Lamp of Wisdom.”
The honorific title “Atisha,” meaning “Supreme,” was bestowed upon him by the king of Ali, acknowledging his exceptional wisdom and spiritual authority. Tibetan historical records refer to him respectfully as “Jobo Rje” (Respected One) and “Jobo Chenpo” (Great Respected One).
From Royal Birth to Spiritual Mastery
Atisha was born into a royal family in the Sahor Kingdom, located in present-day Dhaka, Bangladesh. From a young age, he showed a strong inclination toward spiritual life, studying under numerous Buddhist masters.
He became a monk at the age of 29 and devoted himself to mastering both sutras and tantras. His spiritual journey took him to Suvarnadvipa (modern-day Sumatra, Indonesia), where he spent twelve years studying under a renowned master before returning to India as a highly respected scholar and teacher.
Atisha’s Journey to Tibet and Lasting Influence
Invited by the leaders of Ali, Yeshe Ö and Jangchub Ö, Atisha traveled to Tibet in 1042 to help revive Buddhism, which had declined in parts of the region. He worked closely with great translators such as Rinchen Zangpo and other Lotsawas, translating key Buddhist texts at Toling Monastery.
Over 17 years in Tibet, Atisha taught widely, shaping the ethical and philosophical foundations of Tibetan Buddhism. His disciple Dromtön Gyalwe Jungne later founded Reting Monastery, formally establishing the Kadampa lineage. Centuries later, Lama Tsongkhapa drew heavily on Atisha’s teachings when forming the Gelug school, further extending Atisha’s influence across Tibetan Buddhism.
Relics, Repatriation, and Enduring Reverence
After Atisha’s passing, his remains were interred near Nyetang Temple, turning the site into a place of deep veneration. Despite historical upheavals, devotion to Atisha never faded.
In 1963, the Chinese government prepared to return part of Atisha’s relics to his homeland following a request from Pakistan. This process was delayed during the Cultural Revolution. Finally, in 1978, after political stabilization, Atisha’s ashes and writings were ceremoniously returned to Bangladesh, honoring his enduring spiritual legacy.
Practical Tips for Visiting Nyetang Temple
- Admission: Entry tickets are required
- Opening Hours: 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM
- Location: About 30 km from Lhasa and 36 km from Qushui County seat
- Transportation: Accessible by minibus or taxi
For travelers seeking a more immersive experience, walking along the Lhasa River Valley offers a scenic approach, with views of golden fields, traditional villages, and mountains reflected in flowing waters.