Introduction to Nyetang Temple
Nestled in the serene landscapes of Qushui County, to the northeast of the county seat and southwest along the China-Nepal Highway, lies the Nyetang Temple, a hidden gem with a rich Buddhist heritage. Also known by its evocative name, “Nyetang Dolma Lhakang,” translating to “Nyetang Tara Hall,” this sacred site invites visitors into a world of ancient wisdom and spiritual solace.
A Historical Sanctuary of Buddhism
Founded in the year 1045 during the Northern Song Dynasty, the Nyetang Temple is a testament to the enduring legacy of ancient Indian Buddhist master Atisha. Atisha, along with his disciple Dromtön (1005–1064), arrived in Nyetang to spread Buddhist teachings. After nine years of profound instruction, Atisha’s journey came to a peaceful end in 1054.
In remembrance of Atisha, a year after his passing, his disciple Dromtön held a commemorative ceremony at Nyetang, where Atisha had lived. To honor his memory, they constructed a reliquary stupa for Atisha’s ashes and built a hall beside it to enshrine a revered statue of Tara, the goddess of compassion and action. This hall, known as “Dolma Lhakang” and located in Nyetang, henceforth became a sacred site of pilgrimage.
The Temple’s Resilience Through Time
The current Tara Hall, rebuilt in the 1930s under the guidance of the revered Hotogtu, mirrors the original design and continues to be a focal point of veneration. The statue of Tara within it is believed to have granted visions to Atisha, particularly emphasizing the importance of spreading Buddhism in Tibet for the benefit of all beings. This has made the statue and the temple itself a beacon of faith for followers.
Architectural Marvels and Sacred Spaces
Facing east, the entrance to Nyetang Temple opens to a stone-paved courtyard, flanked by the residential quarters of the temple’s caretakers. A spacious veranda leads to the main hall, and at the north end of the veranda lie two unique underground white stupas, partially visible above ground. These stupas house relics of Atisha and Dromtön, including items they used in their lifetimes, such as clothing, shoes, and saddles, making them exceptionally special.
Adjacent to the main hall, a path facilitates the spiritual practice of circumambulation, allowing visitors to engage in meditative walks while reflecting on the teachings of Buddhism.
In Closing
Nyetang Temple stands as a beacon of Buddhist tradition and spirituality, inviting visitors to explore its ancient hallways and experience the peace and wisdom that have been preserved through centuries. Whether you’re drawn to its historical significance, architectural beauty, or spiritual allure, a visit to Nyetang Temple offers a unique glimpse into the heart of Tibetan Buddhism and a serene retreat from the bustling world beyond its sacred walls. Engage with this timeless sanctuary and let the ancient teachings enrich your soul.
Inside the Sacred Halls of Nyetang Temple: A Spiritual Journey
The Three Main Halls of Devotion
Nyetang Temple houses three main sanctuaries dedicated to the veneration of Buddhist deities, offering visitors a deep dive into the essence of Buddhist worship and artistry.
The Central Hall: Nyetang Dolma Lhakang
The heart of Nyetang Temple, the Nyetang Dolma Lhakang, is a spiritual treasure trove dedicated to the Twenty-One Taras. In Tibetan Buddhism, Tara (known as “Dolma” in Tibetan) is revered as a major female deity, manifesting in various forms to guide and protect her followers. This hall not only celebrates her many aspects but also houses a shrine to Sakyamuni Buddha, flanked by statues of his ten principal disciples. These disciples, renowned for their supreme qualities—ranging from wisdom to miraculous powers—are exquisitely represented, bringing to life the rich tapestry of Buddhist teachings and history.
The South Hall: Langje Lhakang
To the south lies the Langje Lhakang, where the main object of veneration is the “Langje Chuten,” a 10-meter-high Victory Stupa. This magnificent structure commemorates Sakyamuni Buddha’s victory over Mara’s armies, symbolizing the triumph of enlightenment over delusion. Alongside it, the spiritual stupas of Naropa (1016–1100) and Dromtön Gyelwe Jungne add layers of historical depth and visual splendor to the hall, celebrating these figures’ contributions to Buddhism.
The North Hall: Gubang Lhakang
The Gubang Lhakang, possibly the oldest structure within the temple, is devoted to the “Three Longevity Buddhas,” including Amitayus, White Tara, and Ushnishavijaya. These deities represent the Buddhist aspirations for long life, health, and overcoming obstacles. Intricate sculptures, including celestial figures, adorn this hall, making it a masterpiece of religious art. According to historical records, this hall was initially constructed by Atisha and later expanded by Dromtön after Atisha’s passing.
A Legacy of Sacred Relics
Within the Gubang Lhakang, a special stupa holds the sacred relics of Atisha, constructed by Gawa Shakya Wonchuk. Beneath this stupa, a statue that strikingly resembles Atisha himself holds a unique place in the hearts of the faithful. Believed to have been crafted by Atisha and consecrated by him, it bears the marks of his own hands, adding a profound personal connection to the divine. Additionally, the hall houses a grand stupa containing the relics of Lama Dromtön Sönam Drakpa, further enriching the spiritual atmosphere of Nyetang Temple.
Conclusion: A Journey Through Time and Spirituality
The Nyetang Temple, with its rich array of halls and sanctuaries, invites visitors on a journey through the heart of Tibetan Buddhism. Each hall, with its unique dedications and artistic expressions, tells a story of faith, resilience, and devotion that has transcended centuries. Engaging with these sacred spaces offers not just a glimpse into the artistic and spiritual heritage of Tibet but also a profound experience of peace and reflection.
Atisha, revered not only as a Buddhist master but also as a multi-talented scholar, left behind a legacy that encompasses a wide array of talents, including his remarkable contributions to the art world. Among his many artistic achievements, two thangkas painted with his own nasal blood stand out as extraordinarily precious. One of these unique artworks is treasured within Nyetang Temple, while the other is preserved at Reting Monastery. These thangkas are highly valued both for their spiritual significance and their unique method of creation.
In addition, Gubang Lhakang houses a life-size statue created by Atisha himself, standing 68 centimeters tall. This statue is considered extremely valuable for its direct connection to the master. Among Atisha’s personal relics, his conch shell and alms bowl are also preserved, tangible links to his daily life and spiritual practices.
The Nyetang Dolma Lhakang holds another of Atisha’s cherished creations: a wooden stupa known as “Tseme Chuten,” crafted from sandalwood. This stupa, intricately designed and intimately associated with Atisha throughout his life, is particularly revered for its craftsmanship and the sanctity it embodies.
The Magnificent Twenty-One Taras
Central to Buddhist veneration in the temple are the statues of the Twenty-One Taras. Stemming from Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, these twenty-one manifestations of Tara hold a revered place in Buddhism for their compassionate protection of humanity from eight major calamities, including dangers from lions, elephants, fire, snakes, robbers, imprisonment, water, and poison.
Among these, Green Tara holds a principal position, her mantra considered the “root mantra” for all the Twenty-One Taras, signifying her preeminence among these manifestations. Each Tara has a specific role, ranging from the alleviation of various natural and human-made disasters to the provision of blessings, wisdom, and protection against demonic forces.
Their representations often embody the gentle, compassionate aspect of Bodhisattvas, though a few exhibit wrathful expressions. Characteristically, they are depicted with slender figures, high breasts, and full hips, their hair styled in a high bun with some locks flowing down their shoulders. Their faces are beautiful and slightly inclined to the left, adorned with precious crowns and large earrings. The Taras may be shown either partially clothed or in tight, half-sleeve tops, with their chests and abdomens exposed, wearing armlets and bracelets, and their lower bodies wrapped in long skirts. Seated in a lotus position on a lotus pedestal, they exude an aura of dignity and grace, representing the diverse aspects of compassion and protection in Buddhist belief.
Atisha (982–1054), a key figure in the Kadampa tradition of Tibetan Buddhism and a renowned scholar from ancient India, held an esteemed place in Buddhist history under various titles that reflect his wisdom and spiritual significance. Born as Chandragarbha, meaning “Moon Essence,” he was later known by the spiritual name Dipamkarara Srijnana, translating to “Glorious Lamp of Wisdom.” The title “Atisha,” meaning “Supreme,” was bestowed upon him by the king of Ali, highlighting his distinguished status.
Referred to as “Jobo Rje” (Respected One) or “Jobo Chenpo” (Great Respected One) in Tibetan historical texts, Atisha’s life began in the Sahor kingdom (present-day Dhaka, Bangladesh), where he was born into royalty. His spiritual journey commenced at a young age under the guidance of Buddhist masters, leading him to profound understandings in both exoteric and esoteric Buddhist practices. After becoming a monk at the age of 29, Atisha devoted himself to studying the Buddhist sutras and tantras, spending twelve years learning from the master of Suvarnadvipa (present-day Sumatra, Indonesia) before taking on significant roles within the monastic community upon his return to India.
Atisha’s journey to Tibet was initiated by the leaders of Ali, Yeshe Ö and Jangchub Ö, who sought to revitalize Buddhism in their region. Invited with great honor, Atisha arrived in Tibet in 1042, where he collaborated with prominent figures such as Rinchen Zangpo and the translator Lotsawa in translating sacred texts at Toling Monastery. His teachings across Tibet over 17 years left a lasting impact, contributing not only to the revival of Buddhism but also to the establishment of the Kadampa lineage by his disciples, notably Dromtön Gyalwe Jungne, who founded Reting Monastery. Tsongkhapa later drew upon Atisha’s works to form the Gelug school, further cementing Atisha’s influence on Tibetan Buddhism.
Following Atisha’s passing, his remains were interred near Nyetang Temple, marking a site of reverence that, despite historical tumults, continued to honor his legacy. In 1963, the Chinese government, responding to a request from Pakistan, prepared to return a portion of Atisha’s relics to his homeland, a plan disrupted by the Cultural Revolution. It was not until 1978, after the fall of the “Gang of Four,” that Atisha’s ashes and writings were finally repatriated to Bangladesh in a ceremony celebrating his enduring spiritual heritage.
Tips for Visiting Nyetang Temple:
- Admission tickets are required for entry.
- Opening hours are from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM.
- Located over 30 kilometers from Lhasa and 36 kilometers from the county seat, Nyetang Temple is accessible by minibus or taxi. For those preferring a scenic route, a walk along the Lhasa River Valley offers breathtaking views of vibrant fields and villages nestled among the mountains and waters.
