Discovering Amazing Yumbulakang: The First Palace of Tibet

Yumbulakang: An Ancient Palace on a Deer Leg-Shaped Hill

Yumbulakang, often referred to as Palace on the Deer Leg. It stands majestically on the hilltop of Mendro Mountain, overlooking the east bank of the Yarlung River in Nedong County. The unique name stems from the hill’s resemblance to the hind legs of a mother deer. This small yet imposing structure is more than just an architectural marvel; it’s steeped in history and myth.

The Historical Significance of Yumbulakang

Regarded as Tibet’s earliest architectural gem, Yumbulakang was not initially a temple but the palace of the early Yarlung Kings. Built around the 2nd century BCE, it symbolizes the dawn of Tibetan civilization. Legends state that “There was no earlier place than Yarlung. No earlier building than the Yumbulakang. and no earlier king than Nyatri Tsenpo.” This ancient edifice marks the beginning of the Tibetan kings’ era.

The Emergence of Tibet’s First King Nyatri Tsenpo

The tale of Tibet’s first king, Nyatri Tsenpo, is fascinating. Around 237 BCE, a shepherd in Zantang stumbled upon a remarkable young man of divine appearance. When asked his origin, the young man pointed towards the heavens. The shepherd, believing the man to be a ‘Son of God,’ led Nyatri Tsenpo down the mountainside where people unanimously declared him the tribal leader.

Nyatri Tsenpo is the first ‘Tsenpo’ (meaning ‘mighty ruler’) of Tubo. Nyatri Tsenpo received reverence as a celestial being incarnate, uniting the tribe and religious followers under his rule.” His reign marked the beginning of a 32-generation lineage, culminating in the establishment of the Tubo dynasty.

yumbu lhakhang old photo 1934 — Yumbu lhakhang old photo 1934

Yumbulakang‘s Transformation from Palace to Temple

With the institution of the Tibetan kings, the construction of royal palaces began. Yumbulakang, built by Nyatri Tsenpo in the Yarlung region, boasts a history spanning over 2200 years. It transitioned from a royal residence to a temple under the reign of Songtsen Gampo. He added a two-story hall next to the palace, dedicating the ground floor to Buddha and the upper floor to the king’s religious practices.

Subsequent expansions included the addition of an entrance hall and monks’ quarters. The 5th Dalai Lama’s era saw the incorporation of a four-pointed golden crest atop the traditional tower structure. In the 15th century, a disciple of Tsongkhapa, Kedrub Tenpa Dargye, built the Riwoche Monastery nearby and took over the administration of Yumbulakang.

Yumbulakang: A Resilient Symbol of Tibetan Heritage

Preservation and Restoration of Yumbulakang

Yumbulakang, an architectural and cultural landmark in Tibet, was designated a regional cultural relic protection unit in 1962. Unfortunately, during the Cultural Revolution, it suffered significant damage. The palace was demolished, and its statues, murals, and wooden structures were destroyed. However, in 1982, restoration efforts began, and Yumbulakang has since been largely restored to its original state.

The Three Main Parts of Yumbulakang

Yumbulakang comprises three main sections: the tower-like structure, the main hall, and the monks’ quarters with additional buildings.

The Tower-Like Structure: Positioned at the eastern end, this is believed to be the oldest part of the palace, originally built by Nyatri Tsenpo. It stands 11 meters high, with a base measuring 4.6 meters north to south and 3.5 meters east to west. Although it appears to have five levels from the outside, it actually contains just three floors internally. The first floor leads to the back of the main hall’s base, the second floor has a small door leading to the top of the large hall, and the third floor once housed the gold crest added during the time of the 5th Dalai Lama.
The Main Hall: Attributed to Songtsen Gampo’s construction, the main hall was originally three stories but has been restored to two. The first half of the ground floor serves as an entrance hall, leading to a Buddha hall, which has a total area of about 60 square meters, supported by eight pillars. The northeastern part features a “U”-shaped base for Buddha statues.
Interior Artwork and Iconography: The hall’s interior once housed sculptures of the past, present, and future Buddhas, along with images of Songtsen Gampo, Princess Wencheng, and other historical figures. The early sculptures were noted for their exquisite craftsmanship, embodying the distinct features of early Tibetan sculptural styles.

yumbulakang far view — Yumbulakang far view

Yumbulakang’s Rich Buddhist Art and Iconography

Buddhist Imagery in Yumbulakang

Yumbulakang, an ancient Tibetan temple, houses a wealth of Buddhist art, significant in both religious and cultural contexts. According to the memories of the lamas within the temple, the walls of the Buddha hall are adorned with intricate and meaningful artworks:

South Wall of the Buddha Hall: This wall features paintings of the Twenty-One Taras, a central figure in Tibetan Buddhism, representing the many aspects of the compassion of the bodhisattvas.
North Wall: Here, there are bas-reliefs of the Twenty-One Taras and the Eight Medicine Buddhas, symbolizing healing and help in the Buddhist tradition.
The Upper Floor: Divided into two sections, the front part originally had two rooms, with the southern room serving as a staircase. The rear section, of similar size to the Buddha hall below, primarily houses statues of Avalokiteshvara (Guanyin) and Shakyamuni Buddha. The Avalokiteshvara statue is particularly precious, sharing stylistic similarities with the one in the Potala Palace’s Pabala Kang.
Rear Wall: The wall features a multi-compartment cabinet displaying various bronze figures, including Maitreya Buddha, Tsongkhapa, Mahadevi (Great Buddha Mother), Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche), and Manjushri.
Additional Artifacts: The temple also contains important religious texts like the “Kangyur” and other relics, including a scripture believed to have descended from heaven during the reign of Trisong Detsen.

The Murals of Yumbulakang Palace

Depictions of Tibetan History and Mythology

Yumbulakang’s walls are covered with vibrant and ancient murals, showcasing the rich history and mythology of Tibet:

Left Wall of the Buddha Hall: This mural vividly depicts early Tibetan history, including scenes of the first Tibetan king, the construction of the first palace, and the cultivation of the first fields.
Portrayal of Divine Scripture: Another set of murals illustrates the divine descent of Buddhist scriptures during the reign of Trisong Detsen, falling onto Yumbulakang.
Padmasambhava’s Meditation: One particularly notable mural shows the great master Padmasambhava meditating in a cave, while another wall features the Twenty-One Taras, Padmasambhava, Shakyamuni Buddha, and the sixteen arhats, all rendered with exquisite skill.

Highlights and Tips for Visiting Yumbulakang

1. The Legend of the Divine Scriptures at Yumbulakang

An ancient legend surrounds Yumbulakang, involving the descent of divine objects from the sky, marking the earliest introduction of Buddhism into the Yarlung Valley. According to the “Annals of the Tibetan Kings and Ministers,” during the reign of the 27th Tsenpo, Lhatotori Nyentsen (around 446 CE), sacred texts such as the “Hundred Prostrations and Confession of Sins,” “The Heart of the Mahayana Ornament of the Precious King Sutra,” the “Jidama Mani Method,” and a golden stupa miraculously descended onto the roof of Yumbulakang Palace. These texts were considered Tibet’s first Buddhist scriptures.

It was during the time of Songtsen Gampo, five generations after Lhatotori Nyentsen, that Buddhism officially entered Tubo (ancient Tibet).Initially, people called these unknown and mysterious texts ‘Gnyan Po Bzang Ba,’ meaning ‘mysterious and divine objects,’ and revered them in the palace. Lhatotori Nyentsen reportedly regained his youth at the age of 80 and lived up to 120 years due to the power of these sacred texts. Yumbulakang thus became a revered site, especially among Buddhists, as the first place where these divine objects descended.

2. The Magical Spring Near Yumbulakang

About 400 meters northeast of Yumbulakang, in the Tashi Ciri Mountain gorge, a perennial spring known as ‘Gar Spring’ bubbles up. Songtsen Gampo’s minister, Gar Ludongzan, discovered this spring, believed to possess spiritual cleansing powers. People say that bathing in its waters purifies the soul and cleanses the skin, and drinking from it cures diseases and prolongs life. Pilgrims visiting Yumbulakang often bathe in this spring and take its water as a holy gift for loved ones.

Travel Tips for Yumbulakang

1. Visiting Information

People need entrance Tickets.
Estimated visit duration: About 1 hour.
Opening hours: 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with flexible visiting times.
Transportation: Yumbulakang is about 11 kilometers from Tsedang. Accessible by minibus, tourist bus, or even by foot.

2. Nearby Attractions

About 5 kilometers south of Yumbulakang, in the Pojang area, lies the ruins of Princess Wencheng’s palace, known as “Bangtang Palace,” which is worth visiting.
Below Yumbulakang, a cropland known as ‘Shalsa Shin’ stretches out, its name deriving from its resemblance to a Tibetan offering shape called ‘Torma,’ translating to ‘Divine Food Cropland.’ Despite some guides’ claims, this land does not represent Tibet’s first cropland but served a special purpose for growing barley for royal offerings.

3. Historical Significance

According to Tibetan historical records, the “earliest region of Yarlung Sokar,” or Tibet’s first village, is also located at the base of Yumbulakang. Current research suggests that this village is now the Mendre Shaba village.

Yumbulakang, steeped in myth, spirituality, and history, is not just a palace but a significant site in the history of Buddhism in Tibet. The palace, its nearby sacred spring, and the surrounding historical sites offer a rich and profound experience for visitors and pilgrims alike.