Shiqu County Guide: Exploring the Remote Heart of Northern Kham

Shiqu County, (སེར་ཤུལ་རྫོང་།) known by many names such as Sêrxü, Sershul, Dzachuka, Serxu, and Shiqu, is a remote highland region located in Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Set deep within the vast Tibetan Plateau, it is one of the most isolated yet culturally rich areas in western China. Its wide-open landscapes and scattered settlements reflect a way of life shaped by altitude, climate, and enduring nomadic traditions.

Administrative Divisions of Shiqu County

Shiqu County is divided into several towns and townships, spread across expansive grasslands and high-altitude terrain.

Towns (7)

Townships (14)

These settlements are widely dispersed, forming a unique human geography where traditional nomadic lifestyles continue to define daily life.

The Edge of the World: Shiqu’s Remote Identity

Historically, Shiqu was part of the powerful Degé Gyalpo, once described as “Heavenly Degé above, Earthly Degé below.” Within this vast territory, Shiqu stood at the far edge of habitation—a land of windswept grasslands and harsh climate.

Even today, it remains the most distant county from Chengdu within Sichuan Province and one of the highest in average elevation. Its remoteness is deeply felt, even among communities in northern Kham, where Shiqu is still regarded as distant and wild.

As travelers approach Niga Town, the county seat, the landscape begins to shift dramatically. Dusty roads, endless skies, and sweeping grasslands create a striking first impression, often resembling the rugged terrain of Qinghai rather than the greener lowlands of Sichuan.

Life on the Grasslands

Shiqu’s natural environment is dominated by vast open plains where Khampa nomads live in close connection with nature. Along roadside stretches of grassland, herders gather to drink tea, rest, and socialize, offering a glimpse into a lifestyle that has remained largely unchanged for generations.

The region is also home to a rich variety of wildlife. Travelers may encounter the elegant Tibetan antelope, often referred to as the “spirit of the plateau,” moving swiftly across the grasslands. Hidden within this high-altitude wilderness is the elusive snow leopard. Rarely seen, it remains a powerful symbol of the untamed and mysterious nature of the Tibetan Plateau.

Sêxū Monastery: A Spiritual Center of Northern Kham

Origins and Cultural Significance

Located approximately 45 kilometers northwest of the county seat, Sêxū Monastery is one of the most important religious centers in the region. The name “Sêxū” refers to descendants of tribes associated with the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, often known as the “Yellow Hat” tradition.

Founded in 1760 during the Qianlong era, the monastery is believed to have been established by descendants of Mongolian migrants. It is also thought that the name “Shiqu” may have evolved from an alternative pronunciation of “Sêxū.”

A Center of Learning and Devotion

Sêxū Monastery is notable not only for its size but also for its spiritual importance. It houses one of the largest gilded bronze statues of Maitreya (Jampa Buddha) in Tibet, second only to the statue at Tashilhunpo Monastery.

The monastery is also one of only two institutions in the Kham region authorized to confer the prestigious Geshe degree, a high academic title in Buddhist philosophy. Inside, the monastery preserves an extensive collection of sacred objects, including tens of thousands of gilded statues and more than 50 sets of the Kangyur, the revered Buddhist canon.

Bagé Mani Wall: The Longest Mani Wall in the World

Near Sêxū Monastery lies the remarkable Bagé Mani Wall, widely regarded as the longest mani wall in the world. Stretching approximately 1.6 kilometers, it rises up to 3 meters in height and measures 2 to 3 meters in thickness. Completing a full kora around the wall takes nearly an hour, offering a deeply immersive spiritual journey.

From a distance, the wall appears as a continuous line decorated with prayer flags. Up close, each stone reveals intricate carvings of Buddhist mantras and scriptures. At intervals, the structure features tower-like sections, reminiscent of ancient fortifications.

Both sides of the wall are lined with niches containing painted stone Buddha images, forming a sacred passage filled with devotion and artistic expression.

A Living Monument of Faith

What makes the Bagé Mani Wall truly unique is its origin. It was not constructed by rulers or authorities, but by generations of devoted individuals. Each stone was carved by hand and added over time, reflecting personal acts of faith.

Even today, pilgrims continue to contribute new stones, allowing the wall to grow steadily. This ongoing tradition transforms the structure into a living monument—one that embodies collective belief, patience, and spiritual dedication across the Tibetan Plateau.

A Historical Timeline of Shiqu County

Shiqu County, located in the remote northern grasslands of Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, holds a deep and layered history shaped by nomadic traditions, tribal movements, and evolving administrative systems. Today, it stands as one of the most culturally rich and geographically isolated regions on the Tibetan Plateau, where ancient heritage meets vast, untouched landscapes.

Early Inhabitants:

Long before the rise of Tibet Empire, the region now known as Shiqu County was home to nomadic pastoral communities recorded in history as the Qiang. These early inhabitants relied on herding and seasonal migration, adapting to the high-altitude grasslands.

In 220 CE, groups of the Di people migrated into the region. Over time, they gradually integrated with the indigenous Qiang population. Historical records such as the Book of the Later Han describe the “Western Qiang” as decentralized tribal groups without a unified authority. Conflict and competition were common, shaping a dynamic tribal society.

Tribal Shifts and Regional Influence

The expansion of the Tuyuhun Kingdom in Qinghai pushed many Qiang communities southward. These groups settled near the upper Yellow River and formed multiple tribal units. Historical texts mention tribes such as Jialiang, Bolü, Dongnü, and Bailang in the region. The ancestors of present-day residents of Shiqu likely emerged from these groups or their later integration. The Tangut Qiang established the Fu Kingdom, which controlled a wide area. Based on historical descriptions, Shiqu fell within its territory.

Under Tibet Empire

During 7th Century, the region came under the control of the Tibetan Empire (Tubo), reflecting the broader expansion of Tibetan influence across the plateau. Shiqu was governed by the Sakya dyanasty and Duogan Military Commission. In the early Ganden Phodrang dynasty, the region was managed through local chieftain systems and later fell under the authority of the Degé Gyalpo

In 1909, Shiqu County was officially established as an administrative unit. This marked an important step toward modern governance.

Republican Era (1912–1949): Administrative Changes

• In 1912, Shiqu became part of the Sichuan Frontier Special Administrative Region.
• By 1932, it was incorporated into the Xikang Special Administrative Region.
• In 1939, it came under the Fourth Administrative Inspectorate of Xikang Province.
• These changes reflect the shifting political landscape of eastern Tibet during the early 20th century.

Early PRC Period (1950s–1970s): Structural Reforms

• After 1950, Shiqu was included in the Tibetan Autonomous Region of Xikang Province.
• In 1952, the county was divided into central, eastern, and western districts.
• In 1955, it became part of Sichuan Province under Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.
• During the late 1950s and 1960s, administrative structures changed frequently, including the transition from district systems to people’s communes.
• During the Cultural Revolution, governance structures were replaced by production groups and later restored.

Reform Era Adjustments (1978–1990s)

• In 1978, Dengke County was dissolved, and parts of its territory were merged into Shiqu.
• Throughout the 1980s, communes were gradually restructured into towns and townships.
• By 1992, district-level offices were abolished, and governance was centralized under the county administration.

Modern Administrative Development (2000s–Present)

Since the 2000s, Shiqu County has undergone steady modernization. Several townships were upgraded to towns between 2012 and 2017, including Xiazha, Sêxū, and Wenbo. In 2020, smaller townships were merged to streamline administration. As of March 2024, the county continues to manage multiple towns and townships, with the county seat located in Niga Town.

Shiqu County remains a place where history continues to shape daily life. From ancient tribal societies to modern administrative systems, the region reflects a long process of adaptation and resilience across one of the highest inhabited areas on Earth.

Top Attractions in Shiqu County: Sacred Sites and Untouched Nature

Beyond its historical depth, Shiqu County is home to remarkable spiritual landmarks and pristine natural landscapes. These destinations reveal the deep connection between belief, culture, and the environment.

Songge Mani Stone City: A Sacred Fortress

Songge Mani Stone City, also known as the Mani Stone Scripture City, is one of the most extraordinary sacred sites in Shiqu. Rising about 10 meters high, this massive structure is built entirely from mani stones carved with Buddhist prayers. Pilgrims continuously walk around the site, performing kora and creating a steady flow of devotion. According to legend, it was built by King Gesar to honor fallen warriors, giving it both spiritual and historical meaning.

The structure resembles a fortress, with outer walls lined with niches containing statues of deities. A main entrance leads into a maze-like interior formed by layers of mani walls. Visitors walking inside experience a sacred labyrinth. Local stories say the ground beneath the structure has sunk under its immense weight. Despite the constant addition of new stones, its height appears unchanged. At the base, some stones bear ancient Sanskrit inscriptions, possibly dating to early periods of Buddhism in Tibet.

Dengma Wetland: The Highland Pearl

Located in Luoxu Town along the upper Jinsha River, about 80 kilometers from the county seat, Dengma Wetland is often called the “highland pearl” of the region. At an altitude of around 3,600 meters, it represents a classic alpine wetland ecosystem.

Snow mountains reflect in clear streams, while vast meadows change color with the seasons. In spring and summer, wildflowers bloom across the land, and birds such as ruddy shelducks and bar-headed geese gather along the riverbanks. In autumn, large areas of wild sea buckthorn trees turn golden, creating a striking natural landscape.

Zhenda Sacred Deer Valley: A Wildlife Haven

Zhenda Sacred Deer Valley, located near the Sichuan–Qinghai border, is known for its high population of white-lipped deer. It is one of the best places to observe this rare species in its natural habitat. Part of the Luoxu Nature Reserve, the valley is also home to many other animals, including the elusive snow leopard. This makes it an ideal destination for wildlife enthusiasts and researchers interested in high-altitude ecosystems.

Zaxika Grassland: The Ocean of Green

Zaxika Grassland is the largest grassland in Sichuan Province and one of the most impressive in eastern Tibet. Sitting at elevations above 4,000 meters, it stretches endlessly toward distant snow mountains. As the source region of the Yalong River, it supports rich pastoral life. Herders graze yaks and sheep across the open land, maintaining a traditional lifestyle.

During summer, the grassland transforms into a vibrant landscape. Rolling green fields resemble waves, while blooming Gesang flowers add bright colors. Nomadic tents appear across the horizon, forming a classic Tibetan scene. According to legend, this grassland is the homeland of King Gesar. Local communities continue to preserve their traditions, praying near mani stone walls and living closely with nature.

From June to September, the region hosts traditional festivals such as the Yaba Festival. During this time, herders gather in colorful clothing, ride horses, and celebrate life on the plateau.