Makalu: A Sacred Giant of the Himalayas
Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world, stands as a majestic and sacred peak in the heart of the Himalayas. Located 24 kilometres southeast of Mount Everest, it straddles the border between China and Nepal. The northern side of Makalu lies within Dingri County in Tibet’s Shigatse region, while the southern face extends into Nepal. Rising to an elevation of 8,463 meters (27,766 feet), Makalu’s towering presence is both awe-inspiring and a challenge to mountaineers and adventurers alike.
Key Features of Makalu’s Peaks and Ridges
Makalu boasts several significant ridges and subpeaks that make it unique among the world’s highest mountains. The mountain has five main ridges: the northwest, southwest, northeast, southeast, and north ridges. Notable among these is the Chomolonzo sub-peak, which reaches 7,816 meters and forms part of the northern ridge. The northwest ridge is home to Makalu II, another prominent subpeak standing at 7,640 meters, while the southeast ridge features a slightly higher subpeak, towering at 8,010 meters.
The mountain’s peaks and ridges are perpetually covered with thick layers of snow and ice, creating massive glaciers that dominate the valleys below. These glaciers are marked by steep cliffs, crevasses, and frequent avalanches, adding to the technical challenges climbers face when attempting to conquer Makalu’s heights.
Legends Surrounding Makalu
In Tibetan folklore, Makalu is often viewed as a sacred mountain, regarded as the home of powerful deities that protect the surrounding region. Some local myths even suggest that the mountain is guarded by spiritual entities who prevent unworthy climbers from reaching its summit. These legends have contributed to Makalu’s mystical reputation, and the mountain is often approached with a sense of respect and caution by local communities.
Makalu’s Challenging Climbing History
Makalu’s steep gradients and difficult terrain have made it one of the most technically challenging peaks to climb. The first successful ascent of Makalu occurred in May 1955, when a French climbing team, led by Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray, reached the summit. Their historic climb via the northwest ridge marked a significant achievement in mountaineering, as they battled against extreme weather conditions, technical rock and ice climbing, and the high altitude.
One of Makalu’s notable features is that it is considered much harder to climb than Everest due to its sharp ridges and exposed slopes. Unlike Everest, Makalu lacks a long, high-altitude plateau or ridge that climbers can traverse, making it more dangerous and difficult to navigate. The mountain has seen far fewer summits than Everest, with only the most experienced climbers daring to attempt it.
Notable Ascents and Climbers While the French expedition remains one of the most famous in Makalu’s history, several other climbers have achieved remarkable feats on the mountain:
- Reinhold Messner, widely regarded as one of the greatest mountaineers of all time, successfully summited Makalu without the use of supplemental oxygen in 1981. This accomplishment further solidified his reputation as a pioneer of high-altitude mountaineering.
- In 1970, a Japanese team made headlines by successfully summiting the southeast ridge sub-peak, at 8,010 meters, further proving the mountain’s appeal to international climbers.
Difference Between the Tibetan and Nepali Sides of Makalu
Makalu’s vast expanse covers parts of both Tibet (China) and Nepal, with each side offering distinct cultural and geographical characteristics. The northern, Tibetan side, is located in Dingri County, Shigatse, a region that has deep historical and spiritual significance. Tibetans revere the mountain as a sacred place, and the spiritual atmosphere surrounding the area reflects its connection to Tibetan Buddhism. The Tibetan side is also known for its high-altitude deserts, wide valleys, and rugged landscape, with fewer vegetation zones due to the extreme altitude.
On the southern side, in Nepal, Makalu is part of the Makalu-Barun National Park, a region known for its lush greenery and rich biodiversity. The Nepali side of the mountain is more accessible to climbers, with a well-established trekking route that passes through forests, meadows, and glacial valleys before leading to the higher, barren altitudes. Nepalese communities living near Makalu often practice Hinduism or Tibetan Buddhism, and the region’s cultural practices are closely tied to the rhythms of the mountain.
While both sides of Makalu are steeped in cultural and spiritual importance, the Nepali side is often more popular among climbers due to its relatively easier access, infrastructure, and proximity to trekking hotspots like Everest Base Camp.
Most Popular Personalities Associated with Makalu
One of the most recognized figures associated with Makalu is Jean Couzy, a French mountaineer who was part of the first team to summit the mountain. Couzy, along with Lionel Terray, became famous for their incredible skill and determination in conquering one of the most difficult peaks on Earth. Couzy’s legacy in mountaineering is forever linked to his success on Makalu, which remains a benchmark for high-altitude climbers today.
Another iconic figure tied to Makalu’s climbing history is Reinhold Messner, the legendary Italian mountaineer. Messner’s ascent of Makalu without supplemental oxygen is often cited as one of the most extraordinary feats in the history of high-altitude mountaineering. His minimalist approach and philosophy of pure mountaineering continue to inspire generations of climbers who seek to push the boundaries of human endurance.
Climbing Makalu: A History of Adventurous Summits
Makalu’s challenging terrain and sheer elevation have drawn mountaineers from around the globe. The first recorded attempt to summit one of its sub-peaks occurred in 1954, when a French team successfully ascended Makalu II. The following year, in May 1955, nine members of a French expedition became the first climbers to reach the main summit of Makalu. They ascended the mountain via the northwest ridge, starting from Nepal and crossing onto the Chinese side.
In subsequent years, other teams have continued to push the boundaries of high-altitude climbing on Makalu. A Japanese team reached the summit of the 8,010-meter sub-peak on the southeast ridge in 1970, further cementing the mountain’s reputation as a destination for experienced climbers seeking both challenge and prestige.
Planning Your Journey: Travel and Base Camp Access
Reaching Makalu requires careful planning, as it is located in one of the most remote areas of the Himalayas. For those starting their journey in Lhasa, a drive along the Sino-Nepal Highway takes you through the historical cities of Gyantse and Shigatse before reaching Xegar in Dingri County. This portion of the journey covers roughly 670 kilometres and typically takes about two days.
From Xegar, the route continues southwest through the small villages of Qiezha, Zhaxizong, Kayong, and Qutang, eventually arriving in the town of Youpa, about 120 kilometers from Xegar. Adventurers can then access Shakitang Base Camp from Youpa, either by horse or yak, covering approximately 60 kilometers. The base camp, situated at an elevation of 3,600 meters on the northeast slope of Makalu, is an ideal starting point for acclimatization and further exploration.
Conclusion: A Peak for Adventurers and Mountaineers Alike
Makalu is not just another high Himalayan peak; it is a mountain steeped in history, offering both immense beauty and extreme challenges. Its sharp ridges, towering glaciers, and unique geographical location make it a bucket-list destination for serious climbers and adventurous travellers. Whether you seek the thrill of scaling one of its sub-peaks or simply wish to experience the serene beauty of the Himalayas, Makalu promises an unforgettable journey into the heights of nature’s grandeur.
Plan your adventure wisely, respect the mountain’s sacred significance, and prepare for an experience like no other at the roof of the world.
